rear hatch
Moderator
Joined: 05-01-2014
Posts: 8,511
From: California
to the forums! The hatch latch isn't like the door handles. It's electric. When powered up,the hatch will open. When the doors are locked electrically, then power is not supplied to the latch.
So if you install a key cylinder, I'm not sure how you could use it to power the switch or otherwise open the hatch.
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,532
From: Fredericksburg,VA
If All doors are locked the liftgate should be locked. If there is a fuse in position #11 in the under hood fuse box the lift gate will not lock.
You can lock/unlock All with the button on the front doors or with a fob 2 presses of the lock button.
You can lock/unlock All with the button on the front doors or with a fob 2 presses of the lock button.
Senior Member
Joined: 12-05-2014
Posts: 3,368
From: Northern Ohio
Never heard of one, but if someone came up with good strictly mechanical key hack for the hatch, I think there would be plenty of interest, especially if it did not disable the solenoid actuator.
The solenoid-only system might have made sense if there was a remote option. As it is, just a simple mechanical key lock would prolly have been cheaper and better.
Only a strictly mechanical solution would be of much use.
An interior pull tab or string would be handy too, but not as useful.
The fuse-in-11 is handy to know about, but of no help with a dead battery or a failed latch solenoid.
I have seen a remote hatch latch retrofit. It was on a custon shaved hatch. It had a dedicated fob. I woulda just relocated the switch to a hidden location.
I have considered adding a second hatch switch, located on the dash panel. Another option that just occured to me is a toggle on the dash that would do the exact same thing as the #11 fuse, but allow convenient instant selection. Or how about both?
The solenoid-only system might have made sense if there was a remote option. As it is, just a simple mechanical key lock would prolly have been cheaper and better.
Only a strictly mechanical solution would be of much use.
An interior pull tab or string would be handy too, but not as useful.
The fuse-in-11 is handy to know about, but of no help with a dead battery or a failed latch solenoid.
I have seen a remote hatch latch retrofit. It was on a custon shaved hatch. It had a dedicated fob. I woulda just relocated the switch to a hidden location.
I have considered adding a second hatch switch, located on the dash panel. Another option that just occured to me is a toggle on the dash that would do the exact same thing as the #11 fuse, but allow convenient instant selection. Or how about both?
New Member
Joined: 10-14-2022
Posts: 25
From: FL
If there is a fuse? Or if the fuse is blown. My son's hatch won't lock on his 2008 LT.
Senior Member
Joined: 03-22-2010
Posts: 2,108
From: Russia Ekaterinburg
I also like the idea of opening the trunk without a solenoid,
but the only thing I could think of was to free up a gap in the trunk gate trim and attach a loop to the lock mechanism.
But this is only half a solution, it does not provide access from the outside. The only plus - is to close the gate from the inside, for example, if I went to bed there.
but the only thing I could think of was to free up a gap in the trunk gate trim and attach a loop to the lock mechanism.
But this is only half a solution, it does not provide access from the outside. The only plus - is to close the gate from the inside, for example, if I went to bed there.