So, Both hubs look brand new, cleaned the connectors anyways, one wire had wear (Lt) but wires weren't exposed, just the sleeve was damaged so I fixed that. The (rt) had new wires running all the way to the (lt) side so apparently been tinkered with before, possibly dealership since I couldn't find anything outside the looms and all looked factory? They were a little long and dangling on the (lt) so I shortened it up a bit through the wheel well. New rotors, and hubs both sides, so hopefully not a faulty one? Took it for a spin and filled with premium to see if any difference in mpg ( dash shows 20. mpg avg @ 24 mph ? ) and I know Ive been driving well over 24 mph ?? Next Ill check that VVT thing once I figure out where and how.

And the light popped back on , on the way home driving down a slight incline.

 

Ok, I seen those when changing the spark plugs, I thought they were cam sensors? Both of mine are silver( new shiny metal with wires, no colored caps or anything? I assume just remove the bolt, yank and clean them then reinstall? should be a simple task.

 

Ok, I pulled the VVT's out, they look brand new, had some carbon flakes on the middle ring of each that just wiped off, Sprayed them out with cleaner then reinstalled. The grey one had oil in the connector so I think there may be a bad seal in that one?? After putting everything back together I took it for a spin and no warnings... so I assume it fixed it even if temporary, if the light pops again, I will check the connector on the grey one and see if it has oil inside again, if so Ill replace it. That same one was full of oil when I pulled it where the black one didn't... so that leads me to believe the grey one has a leaky seal for the connector and possibly causing issues... any input would be helpful, Thanks for everyones help on these issues since Ive joined, youre all a great bunch, hopefully there will be a meet n greet one day !

 

Replacing them in pairs may not be a bad idea... If one had a problem the other shortly will, type of deal. It's usually lack of proper maintenance, (oil changes) that causes them to go bad... (From what I've read)

 

Mine did. It gave me ABS light, traction control light, service ECS light. and it would do it intermediately. I had 12.4v on battery. changed battery, no problems since

 

I can agree, the oil was dark when it was changed, also there was carbon build up on the dip stick indicator which I cleaned to see better. Inside the filler opening in the valve cover is pretty nasty as well so Im going to run seafoam and other cleaners through before the next oil change and I will do that before replacing anything that could possibly get damaged from the crud , so everything will be clean inside hopefully? I will see how this does for the next couple days. I also want to put new trans lines on and get the trans flushed, as they said the fluid was dark ( I didn't see it and don't know how they did at the shop? ) but the lines were wet and they recommended changing with the flush at a tune of $300, Im going to do the lines myself as I checked and can do it all with the hood up, flushing and filling will be an issue as I cant get under it, but Im thinking to drop the pan and replace the filter too, just to do it right. I cleaned off the trans lines to see if they are leaking at the crimp or the fittings, since there is an o-ring that can go bad in these quick connects and that will save a little money where the lines are only about $60 and fittings are cheaper.

 

What possible reason is there to replace one piece steel ATF lines, besides revenue enhancement? Flushing ATF on a high mileage car is a bad idea. The VariableValveTiming valves are what tell the "phasers" to change the timing, the cam sensors tell the computer what the timing is. With the correct tool changing the ATF seals is pretty easy.

If the symptom had included ABS light my advice would have been different.

I know It has been pointed out before, but we have a fairly complete "how-to" section here: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...al-library-21/
And a "commonly used parts" section here: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/comm...rt-numbers-68/

You might take some time exploring the site; up on the top left click on "Forums" the drop down has all of the various sections.

We have been around since 2005! We know a thing or two about HHR.

 

Thanks, Im still browsing and searching, just sometimes in a hurry and not finding what I need in the book ( which shows nothing on the VVT) Im beginning to think these repair manuals are going to crap with lazy writers? But they were always good in the past. Recently finding the Forums are much better with knowledge and experiences. Reason for the trans is the lines apparently leak so I don't know how much fluid is in there or if it has ever been maintained ( or abused) as it does have a receiver hitch... so I wanted to change the filter and put fresh fluid in, or would it be wise to just change the lines and top it off? then again, is the fluid standard or synthetic already in there ? my guess is Dino as it doesn't look well maintained in the oil changes so far ...hmmmm

 

As far as the VVT solenoids, trying to clean them is a waste of time. Just replace them with a quality brand like AC Delco.
My SS started throwing codes for them at around 50k miles. I've had my car since new and changed the oil and filter every 5k miles but still one of the solenoids decided to quit working properly (intake side solenoid)
Here's a link to where I "dissected" one of the old solenoids just to take a look. They were perfectly clean looking and no debris evident.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...arheads-62485/
And yes, it now runs perfect with the new solenoids and haven't had any codes since.

 

Fluid is supposed to be Dexron VI which is synthetic, 2006 came with Dexron III but that was superseded via TSB. I still don't know how one piece steel ATF lines might leak.
Did this place also recommend a power steering fluid flush? My Chevy dealer did. They use a check off sheet supplied by a fluid and shop equipment vendor, not GM. Turns out GM refunded lots of owners for that "work".