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I think most of the BIg RV's have owners with Deep Pockets.
They don't want a 10 year old towed vehicle with possibly questionable reliability depending on mileage etc.
Also they want the latest thing whether they need it or not.
However, I have seen several being towed and also several for Sale with the tow hitch parts attached.
Silverfox, you would be surprised how many Class A RVs tow HHRs 4 down. I see at least 2 or 3 every camping season. We have a travel trailer and are in campgrounds a fair number of weekends every year. And they love them. I actually thought there was a member here that towed theirs with an RV.
Regarding being a "1/2 ton", it should not be confused with the term being applied to modern PU trucks. 1/2 ton = 1500/150 series, 3/4 ton = 2500/250 series, 1 ton = 3500/350 series. Those terms are still used even though they have not been accurate for decades. My 2008 Sierra is a 1500, i.e a "1/2 ton". It has a 7500# towing capacity, certainly more than 1/2 ton. Keep in mind that the HHR is not a true truck, its still a Chevy Cobalt underneath the pretty skin. Neither are good for towing much other than small utility trailers. For short runs they certainly can do more. But anything heavier than what's recommended is going to be hard on the car for distance traveling.
That said towing is not just about towing capacity. Tongue weight, payload, and axle capacity are all important to consider. For example, I would not tow a 7500# travel trailer with my truck even though it's rated for it. The tongue weight would eat at my payload and not leave much room for hauling anything in the truck.
That 1200# teardrop is probably listed at it's "dry weight". Dry weight is a fictional number. It does not include any options. For example, many lower end trailers do not come with a spare tire. It's an option, not included in the dry weight. You will never be towing it at it's dry weight when loaded and ready to camp. What you want to use is the GVWR. While you may not load it to that weight, you'll likely be closer to that weight when loaded. And your gas mileage will be bad. Even with a tear drop the wind resistance will drag the car down and severely diminish mileage. This is something a lot of new travel trailer owners get surprised by. Just as an example, my Sierra gets 16 in the city, 21 highway. When I tow, if it's not windy I can get 11 mpg at 62 mph.
Don good point about needing to stop. I do not know if teardrop trailers have brakes. In most states trailers that light are not required to have brakes. I wonder how well an HHR can stop with a 1000# trailer at 60 mph? However, troopers don't check weight. There is actually no law in any state that says anything about non-commercial vehicles and towing overweight. There should be. But there is not. I've seen this discussed to ad nauseam on several RV forums. Where it could go sour is as a civil suit. If you can't stop and cause an injury accident or death, lawyers will eat up the fact that you have towed over the manufacturers recommendation.
Reading this through I came up with these thoughts...
You are looking at on the wrong end for towing. Put a tow bar on the front (if a manual tranny) and haul the HHR with a proper tow rig.
Convert/modify the inside for the overnight stay sleeping area. In essence hauling a trailer with the potential to be the second vehicle in case the tow rig breaks down.
I know, crazy talk. I'm surprised I don't see any HHR being towed behind the big RV's I see on the interstate. It would be a good choice I'd think.
funny you brought that up, i am considering pulling my panel behind my RV . I did a quick search on some RV forums and turns out lots of people do it. We are doing a loop of lake Huron, Superior and lake Michigan next month and it might be handy.
Amazing how many people think they can Fudge and get away with it. An accident with a trailer behind you can be a serious matter from several angles.
The question of towing legally would certainly come up if there were any serious injuries.
Your own insurance company may challenge paying if there were questionable circumstances.
The responding Police officer may make note of what he observes pertaining to safety issues contributing to the accident.
You could end up in court where all possibilities of negligence are revealed.
Then there is the matter of your own possible injuries along with any passengers.
And the list goes on.....
Here is a list I would consider If I were going Tow anything close to the approved Maximum Limit.
I would put the SS front brakes on if you have an LT or LS model.
They will also benefit you when you are not towing.
I would also use XL load rating tires with additional PSI capacity if you need it. Check Tire pressures with tires cold.
I would consider a Coolant Service if it has been a while.
I would use Premium fuel in the 2.4L engine.
I would weigh the trailer when fully loaded and road ready, and then properly inflate the trailer tires for actual gross trailer weight.
Be aware of tow ready trailer tongue weight. It can be checked with a bathroom scale. Just make sure the tongue is weighed at the same height from the ground as when being towed. Small trailers are not as critical but I would guess you could use approx. 40-60 lbs. and the try it.
I would do an Oil and Filter change, especially if you are beginning a trip.
I would consider replacing the engine Air Filter if you have over 25,000 miles on it. Depends on prior driving conditions.
Revisit your Battery Condition and age.
Recheck all 4 HHR wheels for proper bolt torque .. 100 Ft. lbs.
Check Spare tire ... 60PSI
Make sure you have a proper working Jack for the HHR.
Adjust all Rear view Mirrors with the trailer hooked up, and Wash/Clean the mirrors and the Rear Hatch window.
Drive Carefully and start out Slow until you get the feel of towing if you are New to it.
Make sure either You, or someone with you ... can back a trailer. I have had to Rescue several at the local boat launch ramp.
You may want to check with your Insurance Co. to make sure you will be covered.
Do all the lights work properly? (stop/turn and markers)
Check the wiring (especially around the hitch area) for worn insulation or exposed wires. Do they hang down close to the ground when connected to the vehicle?
Remember.. as do safety chains, they do need some slack for when you make turns (see pic below)
Before you move the trailer... inspect the tires.
Look for cracked sidewalls just above where the tires are contacting the ground.
Do they have good tread depth? No missing chunks of rubber or exposed cords?
You do carry a spare... right? Do you also have the right lug wrench and jack in case of a flat?
Trailer tires are different than car tires. It's illegal to use car tires on a trailer.
Grease the wheel bearings (especially with boat trailers) every season.
A little grease on the coupler mechanism and ball keeps them working good and prevents rust.
Secure your load!!
You can't have too many straps! Check everything. Don't think that just because it's heavy it wont fly out.
You have probably seen these items along the highway: coolers, ladders, boat seats, bags of clothes, chairs, or even gas grills!
You might not care if that rusty old charcoal grill rolls around in the trailer on the way to the landfill until it flies out and ends up is somebody's windshield.
Pre-tripping your car and trailer is not only safer for you, it's safer for everyone around you too. It makes for a more enjoyable and less stressful drive.
And last but not least...when towing a trailer, NEVER FORGET YOUR TOWING A TRAILER!!!
Your not in a cool looking HHR (15 feet long and 6 feet wide) zipping down the highway at 70+mph on your way to Grandma's house.!
Your in a cool looking HHR that's closer to 30 feet long and probably 7 feet wide.
Watch your speed. Stick to the speed limit if not slower (depends on the the type of trailer your towing)
Trailers don't handle well at higher speeds.
Some states have special speed limits for "Autos With Trailers" like California: 55 mph
Keep to the right:
Right lane only except to pass. No carpool or express lanes can be used.
Leave more room.
When passing, Triple your distance ahead of the car you passed before changing lanes back.
Don't follow as close as you normally would either. It takes a lot longer distance to stop and can get real squirrely during hard braking.
Widen your turns. The longer the trailer - the wider the turn. Hopping a curb can jar your load loose, bend a stop sign or damage your trailer with a fire hydrant.
Keep the trailer in the center of the lane.
Check your mirrors. When the trailer is centered in the lane, look ahead and notice where your car is. Some people like to drive a little closer to the
left or right of their lane normally. Remember you towing a trailer. It's wider than your car. Your car might still be in the lane but your trailer won't.
Final Note:
I know it's a lot to remember, but if you do it long enough it will become 2nd nature and you'll be keeping you, your family, your car, your trailer, and everyone around you a lot safer as well.
I'm a truck driver by trade. My truck is 25 feet long plus a 53 foot long trailer that's 13 1/2 feet tall, 8 feet wide and weighs up to 80,000 pounds. So I could cause a lot of damage (or death) if I'm not careful how I drive.
I enjoy driving my truck. But after a long day of driving that bad boy around, I love getting into my HHR for the drive home. It feels like I'm driving a high performance sports car!!
I wish more people paid attention to your detailed instructions!
We just got back from vacation, 5,000 miles heavy rains both directions.
Loads of cars towing trailers, not considering the length of the car and trailer length.
Blown tires , dangling safety chains, the sparks are pretty at night !
At one rest stop , a guy pulled into the car area parking , forgetting that the trailer didn’t fit into a single car spot!
You must drive very alert and defensively , you have to think for the other guy!
Happy to to read your very happy to drive your HHR , keep it clean and drive it often!!
300k on my 2.2, I pull trailers all the time on long trips hauling sound gear
Flat Land towing is totally different then in the West.
We have a thing called Mountain Passes on many of our hiways and for that you need Power and Brakes and Common sense.
It would be easy to overwhelm an HHR with a Max load under some of these conditions on a hot day.
Especially an Auto transmission and traffic going 65 - 70mph.
My 2011 LT 2.2 has a trailer hitch. I've been considering a Curt 9-3/4 or 10" receiver with either 3.5 or 5" lift. I have a 1994 Playbuoy 16' pontoon. It's on dry dock on a trailer at the harbor where we rent the slip. It's sitting 150-200 yards from the boat launch ramp. It's flat land although the launch is a little steep. Do you think I'd be OK dropping the boat in and pulling it out with the HHR? I won't be on the road, just driving across a parking lot. I think the boat's listed weight is 1600 lbs. No idea about the trailer, but both boat and trailer are fairly stripped down units. 30hp outboard Evinrude. First two years my buddy dropped it in with his Blazer, but he the engine blew on it last Fall. I'd never tow it on the highway, but if it needed repair I'd like to be able to tow it in town-never above 25MPH. I'm on the Mississippi so the town is flat old river bottom.
05-02-2019, 09:31 AM
