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And still the access point is the tail light access panels! Whether plug n play or wire tap. Plug n play you have to take things apart to get a wire to both sides. Wire tap just one side, not tearing stuff up.
Brown is parking, green is Right stop/turn,yellow is Left stop turn, black is ground. The harness is the one next to the battery, it splits right there behind the battery.
State laws have been changing of late some require trailer brakes on all trailers. Apparently, Missouri is not one of them, yet.
And still the access point is the tail light access panels! Whether plug n play or wire tap. Plug n play you have to take things apart to get a wire to both sides. Wire tap just one side, not tearing stuff up.
Brown is parking, green is Right stop/turn,yellow is Left stop turn, black is ground. The harness is the one next to the battery, it splits right there behind the battery.
State laws have been changing of late some require trailer brakes on all trailers. Apparently, Missouri is not one of them, yet.
Depends on weight and axles. Most single axles don't carry a lot of weight and especially these HHRs wont pull a lot either, small single axles aren't required, larger trailers and especially dual axles do.
When I installed my trailer hitch, I installed the plug and play Curt harness, I popped out the plastic piece over the battery and the two little access doors. I drilled one small hole for the ground wire on the driver’s side with the self tapping bolt I used. Quick, simple and those OEM wires are so thin, I didn’t want to cut a splice into them . I use the trailer hitch for our bicycles on a rack, never have towed with it, but I can if need be. Where the plastic panel was above the battery. This is not one of my HHR’s, it’s an Internet sourced photo
When I installed my trailer hitch, I installed the plug and play Curt harness, I popped out the plastic piece over the battery and the two little access doors. I drilled one small hole for the ground wire on the driver’s side with the self tapping bolt I used. Quick, simple and those OEM wires are so thin, I didn’t want to cut a splice into them . I use the trailer hitch for our bicycles on a rack, never have towed with it, but I can if need be. Where the plastic panel was above the battery. This is not one of my HHR’s, it’s an Internet sourced photo
I guess you guys think I am advocating for wire tap. I'm not, I am pointing out that
A) if there was previous wiring installed it might be hidden behind one of the access doors and
B) you have to access the PNP harness through them. and
C) if you choose to wire tap you can do it all in one spot and hang the wire out the gate when in use and in the spare tire area when not in use. I don't like drilling holes in cars. If they needed another spot to rust they would have drilled them at the factory.
Of course you could solder and shrink instead of 3M taps, I would prefer that to yanking on wire connectors and breaking them; that's just me.
Oh! No Donbrew , I wasn’t under the impression that you were advocating cut and splice or anything like those 3M splice taps . Just explaining how I did mine.
I will say that I did try the 3M tap splicers , red ones came with resistors for LED lights, those cut right through the tiny wee flimsy wires. I don’t recommend them at all
These little thingys, called Scotchloks , great idea, the blue ones are to big for the HHR’s thin wires, the red ones are to small.