Wheel Speed Sensor
What usually happens is that somebody removes the fuse box then tightens the bolts "until I was afraid they would strip"; that is not tight enough to get all of the blades seated into their slots. That is always the cheapest and quickest thing to try first along with the battery and power steering connections on the side of the fuse box.
The ABS module will not send the engine into safe mode (limp). The tranny code is what you need. That's going to be a PO7xx code.
VVT and timing codes can cause Traction and ABS along with hard shifting in an attempt to tell the driver to pay attention to the CEL. What some call "limp mode"; too many mechanics think it is.
Limp home mode comes from overheating; the computer starts firing the spark plugs and injectors alternating cylinders in an attempt to get the driver to park the car before the engine and catalytic converter melt down. Far more serious than just hard shifting. I have experienced it.
Limp home mode comes from overheating; the computer starts firing the spark plugs and injectors alternating cylinders in an attempt to get the driver to park the car before the engine and catalytic converter melt down. Far more serious than just hard shifting. I have experienced it.
Okay…..So I went for a long drive. Took it on the expressway. I’m hitting almost 3500 rpms before it shifts in to another gear. Also, didn’t shift in to high gear I don’t think. Between 70-80mph I’m runnings about 4000 rpms. It’s also slow from a stop and doesn’t shift out of 1st until 3-3500 rpms. They replaced the transmission speed sensor is what I was told today. He could have said the wrong thing though. I’m not a mechanic by any means. Does it need to be “recalibrated”? Or maybe did I slip in to the “I” gear by accident? The shift solenoids were replaced not that long ago from what I’m being told.
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