So I am seriously considering getting the ZZP radiator for our 2011 LT 2.2 in hopes of addressing high operating temps. (Or higher than I like anyway). So would really like so imput from those that have put one in their car. Currently I have to turn the heat/cool temp up when a/c is on at 65-70 mph to keep temp below 200 F…..climbing it goes up quick. Waterpump is not that old, but not GM pump…..no leaks.

Question 2….
Need to replace front engine/transmission mounts so want to change them all (age). My problem is,….RA lists kit with 4 mounts…I only know of 3….where is the 4th mount?

Thanks,

 

4th mount is under the fuse box on the transmission, it rarely gets changed.

 

Awww, ok

 

Before you go through with buying a performance radiator maybe you should look into why it’s running hot. 100’s of thousands of HHR’s that cool good with the factory radiator.
Maybe you have an air bubble in the system ? Try burping it.
Air flow restriction at the radiator ?
Off brand thermostat ?

 

Your thread in February ended with you putting in the correct thermostat, and saying everything was good. 200 degrees is nowhere near overheating when climbing hills or sitting at a traffic light in the summer heat.

If it gets above 200 just driving on flat highway, that's different. I would not be happy about that. If you can verify that the water pump is functioning properly, then a radiator upgrade would be a relatively easy job.

 

You did replace the thermostat did you drain and refill the Dexcool? Did you burp the system?
the larger capacity radiator will be cooler because of the aluminium tanks, my 2.4 auto runs at about 180 with the fresh Dexcool and AC Delco 131-158 thermostat, on long highway trips to Florida or out to Cape Cod, luggage and 3 adults , stock fantastic plastic tanked rad.

 

I dont believe it has air in system. I have checked under the cap several times and Dex-cool right up where should be….no air gap in pipe flow. Correct thermostat. I do have a tow bar partially in front of grill but about 6-8” away

 

I been kind of wondering if water pump is circulating coolant as it should be…..reason I question it,….when I did the timing chain job and replaced the water pump with one that came in the kit I bought….I got almost 100,000 miles on car and that new water pump started leaking (shaft seals I suppose….out the weep hole). So, I couldnt wait to order one, had get car back on road( how I make money) so I got one from Oreilly’s auto parts, unfortunately it has a plastic impeller. I know several years ago VW’s came from factory with plastic impellers that were notorious for slipping on the shaft and not pumping as should. I do see the coolant moving when cap is off though. Is there a better method of checking the water pump?

 

You could remove the water pump inspection cover and check the balance shaft chain for tension. You might be able to run the engine with the cover off to see if the pump is turning. The engine oil isn't pressurized there, but some oil might get slung out. I don't know how you could tell if the impeller had come loose.

 

I’m of the old school, replace the plastic impeller water pump.