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ZZP radiator and other things….

Old Aug 2, 2025 | 08:10 AM
  #11  
donbrew's Avatar
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The oil pump is in the front cover.
Old Aug 2, 2025 | 08:44 PM
  #12  
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From: Naples, FL
Originally Posted by Oldblue
4th mount is under the fuse box on the transmission, it rarely gets changed.
how hard is it to change that mount I’ve done the rest but that one on my car.
Old Aug 2, 2025 | 09:49 PM
  #13  
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Free shop manuals in donbrew's signature
Old Aug 3, 2025 | 06:40 AM
  #14  
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You have to remove the fuse box and ECM and TCM , I’ve replaced one and didn’t resolve any clunks or rattling issues.
Old Aug 5, 2025 | 12:29 AM
  #15  
O6ChevyHHR's Avatar
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From: Naples, FL
Originally Posted by Oldblue
You have to remove the fuse box and ECM and TCM , I’ve replaced one and didn’t resolve any clunks or rattling issues.
that’s what I thought thank you sir
Old Aug 5, 2025 | 02:45 AM
  #16  
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geg
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Have you checked the cleanliness of your radiator?
Radiator cells become clogged with dirt, poplar fluff, guts of dead insects and other road debris. This is as inevitable as old age or death.
Just remove the upper protection and look into the space between the engine radiator and the AC condenser. If you see a "fur coat" of dust or other dirt there - the cause of overheating has been found. Just remove the radiator and wash it with a pressure washer, but do not use very strong water pressure so as not to damage the aluminum cells. In general, it is recommended to do this procedure once every few years, preventive maintenance of the radiator. At the same time, you will change the coolant, which also does not live forever and has its own expiration date.
In general, the procedure is not complicated and not expensive, but saves decent money on expensive repairs.
Old Aug 7, 2025 | 04:30 PM
  #17  
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From: Alabama
Originally Posted by geg
Have you checked the cleanliness of your radiator?
Radiator cells become clogged with dirt, poplar fluff, guts of dead insects and other road debris. This is as inevitable as old age or death.
Just remove the upper protection and look into the space between the engine radiator and the AC condenser. If you see a "fur coat" of dust or other dirt there - the cause of overheating has been found. Just remove the radiator and wash it with a pressure washer, but do not use very strong water pressure so as not to damage the aluminum cells. In general, it is recommended to do this procedure once every few years, preventive maintenance of the radiator. At the same time, you will change the coolant, which also does not live forever and has its own expiration date.
In general, the procedure is not complicated and not expensive, but saves decent money on expensive repairs.
Honestly I need to check that. Thanks
Old Aug 28, 2025 | 10:18 PM
  #18  
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From: Colorado
Originally Posted by Gearhead1
So I am seriously considering getting the ZZP radiator for our 2011 LT 2.2 in hopes of addressing high operating temps. (Or higher than I like anyway). So would really like so imput from those that have put one in their car. Currently I have to turn the heat/cool temp up when a/c is on at 65-70 mph to keep temp below 200 F…..climbing it goes up quick. Waterpump is not that old, but not GM pump…..no leaks.
...you realize 180° - 220° is normal operating temperature range for the 2.2 engine, right? 200° is basically normal, it's not "high" at all

Seems like you're trying to fix a problem that doesn't actually exist. With A/C on I usually hover around 198° - 203°ish in city stop and go driving, at highway speeds it's down towards the lower 190s. I still use the original/stock radiator in mine and have no issues
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 05:43 AM
  #19  
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On a hot day, a/c on full, long drive, up a hill, my 2011 2.2 still doesn't hit 200F.
Old Aug 29, 2025 | 08:39 AM
  #20  
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Hot day sitting stopped in traffic AC on 200F not unusual. Moving on highway AC on should stay 190F ish.

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