problems after recall revisited.
Senior Member
Joined: 12-24-2008
Posts: 717
From: N/A
Instead of removing the headliner bulbs I would let the RAP time period extinguish the interior bulbs - that way you know the RAP period has run out and that accurate measurements can then be made.
I believe the RAP features are covered in the owners manual.
Another, albeit undocumented feature of RAP is, if you care to try, or have it, is Remote Start. The instructions for Remote Start say to press the "Lock" button twice on the FOB before pressing and holding the Start button. On my vehicle if the RAP period has not expired only one press of the Lock button is needed. My theory is the first press in the Owner's Manual written instructions is to "wake" a sleeping vehicle up, the second press locks the doors. The Remote Control Door Lock Receiver or RCDLR is on at all times just waiting for a command from the FOB. It would be my bet this RCDLR is the bulk of the standard parasitic draw mentioned above by others.
Further diagnosing, if needed, would just involve removing fuses until you find the circuit that is drawing too much power after the RAP period expires. I know of no way to reduce or eliminate the RAP period - this makes it very time consuming to diagnose these types of problems. One thing, each module will be drawing some power, they have to as they too are listening for any activity from other modules in the vehicle.
I believe the RAP features are covered in the owners manual.
Another, albeit undocumented feature of RAP is, if you care to try, or have it, is Remote Start. The instructions for Remote Start say to press the "Lock" button twice on the FOB before pressing and holding the Start button. On my vehicle if the RAP period has not expired only one press of the Lock button is needed. My theory is the first press in the Owner's Manual written instructions is to "wake" a sleeping vehicle up, the second press locks the doors. The Remote Control Door Lock Receiver or RCDLR is on at all times just waiting for a command from the FOB. It would be my bet this RCDLR is the bulk of the standard parasitic draw mentioned above by others.
Further diagnosing, if needed, would just involve removing fuses until you find the circuit that is drawing too much power after the RAP period expires. I know of no way to reduce or eliminate the RAP period - this makes it very time consuming to diagnose these types of problems. One thing, each module will be drawing some power, they have to as they too are listening for any activity from other modules in the vehicle.
Member
Joined: 06-02-2013
Posts: 59
From: Massachusetts
Didn't come with an owners manual and I'm guilty of not reading them except when necessary. Sno White, thanks for the helpful info. I left the meter hooked up and sure enough, after about 15 minutes it dropped from 151milliamps down to 11. Looks like there is no parasitic drain issue to explain the totally dead battery. Its been starting fine for a couple days now. Ashleigh, it will be interesting to see what they find after testing your car.
Last edited by dano40; Jul 15, 2014 at 09:28 PM.
Member
Joined: 06-02-2013
Posts: 59
From: Massachusetts
Yes, that would have given me the official name to the feature of certain accessories being able to be used after shutoff but, but wouldn't have clearly explained the associated power drain when none of the items are actually in use and the key has not been on.
Anyway I believe I can officially rule out the ignition replacement as a cause for my dead battery.
Anyway I believe I can officially rule out the ignition replacement as a cause for my dead battery.
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