Does the lower TMAP sensor have the plug 'n' play adapter, or is it crimped to the existing harness?

So far I changed the mass airflow sensor, the MAP & TMAP sensors, the bypass valve solenoid and the wastegate solenoid. I checked the voltages at the mass airflow sensor and they are good.. All of the charge piping is good. Air filter is good. The air ratio is all over the place on my RPD. It doesn't have good throttle response, and no boost above 3 psi. Cold warmup is not right. It surges and never runs a higher rpm then drops as its supposed to.

Also still get p0101. No other codes.

I got no idea what MAF sensor voltage you think is right, but it is frequency that it sends to the ECM. Should be between 1700 and 12500 Hz, 65535Hz idicates a short or open circuit.

The DTC disables the boost control and limits the boost to mechanical only.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...42227d5b1f.png
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...6d633c2efe.png

Here's a link to how to make a boost leak tester. https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...ss-lnf-223319/

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...45bf921461.jpg

Here's what you end up with. You glue the 2 PVC fittings together, drill and tap a hole in the cap, and thread in a quick connect fitting for your air compressor. Take the charge pipe off the turbo, clamp your newly made contraption into the hose. I also took the charge pipe off the throttle body(not an easy task!) And clamped the 8 oz PVC cement can into it.

How do you know if the air filter is good? Mine looked good too.

I saw on here there were certain voltages to read on the mass airflow sensor connector so that's what I checked. The air filter is brand new, changed it troubleshooting. I can't check frequencies. I guess it's going to the dealership for troubleshooting.

Do you bottom out the front end on curbs or anything else? That can crack the intercooler. The end tanks are plastic and can crack easily. There is also a strip along the bottom of the tank for condensation to collect into, that can break. The boost leak test would reveal any leaks in the charge piping, intercooler, or joints between. Visually looking at the intercooler isn't good enough.

No I don't bottom out. It's not just a boost issue. When you start it up cold it usually goes to 1500 rpm then gradually come down and at some point it has a steady lope sound. It doesn't do any of that anymore. It just runs erratic until it's warmed up some. It gets the P0101 code right away.

A boost leak is also a vacuum leak, and can cause this.

In addition to all the visible vaccum lines, there is also a vacuum tank that is for the bypass solenoid. Any leaks could be the cause.

You didn't say how your lower upgraded TMAP sensor is connected, plug 'n' play, or spliced? And how is it oriented? Towards the AC compressor, or the fan shroud?

The lower TMAP is plug and play and is oriented towards the compressor but the wires are not touching. I'll get the pvc parts and build the pressure tester next. As far as the vacuum lines I have checked them. I resecured the one for the pcv valve.