Vince hadn't even advanced timing yet and I notice a difference in power with just the re-tune AFR adjustment.

From what I've read on HPTuners, E35 blend is good for +10 degrees timing everywhere.

Waiting for the timing adjustment tune as we speak.

FYI, you don't gain anymore power going E85 over a 50/50 blend, maybe just a little more knock resistence. Search the web and you will find the results about going full E85 vs. E85 50/50 blend.

E47 blend is probably the most I would ever run, but mixing wise E35 is much much easier ratio to deal with.

E85 here is only $3.25/gal and I filled up 3 5 gallon jugs which is enough for 3 full tanks of E35 blend on a HHR SS :twothumbs:

I don't know how iat2 would be any lower since the only thing changed at the time was air filter placement, the best thing i could figure is that the computer makes adjustments for the temperatures between ait1 and ait2?

Nope no way of monitoring it atm, I need to get off my lazy butt and get a interceptor gauge.

In the process of mounting the hood scoop as we speak, fitting before hood cutout and paint.
Not sure how much it will help, but can't hurt, and besides it sure is gonna look nasty. Lot of visual difference between new scoop and old one.
Will do up some pics. when it all done and painted, and of course tested.
This way I can switch back to stock setup in a couple of mins, if need be. "Moon"

I was just wondering if you noticed any temp difference. I guess it makes sense that the computer is adjusting based on the temps.

I want an interceptor bad but I just got my elm obdii adapter so I'm gonna try the whole torque app thing first. Cheap alternative, just have to see how well it works out

Sounds like this hypothesis is from a "human" point of view. Understand that our personal evaluation of heat gradients are different than targeted mechancial heat loads. Depending upon the ambient temp, relative humidity and dew point, your evaluation may be different. Sounds like it was a warm day with rising ambient temps in which the air would hold more moisture, thus giving you (a human, not a machine) the impression that the engine is also "uncomfortable". Remember, a piece of machinery is more than comfortable at 190F, which might feel like you are opening an oven on the preheat cycle, especially if you add elevated humidity to the equation. Best thing to check surface temp anomalies is to shoot an infrared thermometer at some of the surfaces (charge piping, valve covers, intake/exhaust man's). I've done this with predictable results. You will also see the collective average of the surfaces rise up to 235F or a little greater once you shut the motor down. And without any air moving across the surfaces as when you are stopped and the hood is open, the dry bulb temps will exhibit higher gradients than wet bulb temps where moving air reduces the temp gradient within the same humidity level.

87silver: WTF! ZOOM...that disertation went right over my head. Been hitting the ole "Coolaid" have ya. "Moon"
"WHAT WAS THAT??!!"......Mayor of Hiroshima

ie: heat soak

Whopper that was funny.

Moon tonight run your car hard then go to a dark area and open you hood. Your downpipe should be glowing bright orange, and your header too. you will then notice this is a great place for a heat shield/sink, and you'll ask yourself why Chevy didn't stick something there. Like a piece of aluminum wrapped in heat pad.

This is your biggest source of heat and a problem from the Turbo down. $.02

So i take it you like the intake?? :lol:

Hey guys I'm new to the forum...just saying hey....figured I'd drop a post as an upcomming project I have pertains to this thread....I am going to cut two reverse scoops into the hood. Will vent the heat out. Will look factory. I considered louver but didn't want the old school look. I will post picks and updates as the project progresses. I have done similar mods in the past on track cars with noticeable reductions in underhood temps