Long time lurker here, posted a few times. Own two HHRs. One 2006 LT, one 2008 SS. Over all I am happy with choice, but as with anything with moving parts O&M is a learning experience.

Was driving the SS a few days ago and all the sudden threw a code and no power.

Went home and plugged the reader in. Retrieved code P0016. Came to this forum first.

Time chain jumped was first diagnoses. Started tearing engine apart. Had previously purchased the factory 3 book service manuals.

No real signs until the the front cover was removed. Then it started to tell a story. Bolts holding the right timing chain guide where gone. One was in at bottom of timing cavity, other was missing. Right black plastic timing chain guide was in pieces.

Tried pulling the quick connect PVC hose off with tool but could not get it off from the turbo or cam cover. After an hour of futility I yanked hose off turbo barb and mangled the hose spring retainer. Luckily a new hose is cheap. This reminded me of why I don't do this for a living.

Pulled timing chain tensioner. It came apart in my hand. Was latest version of tensioner with bump on head and skinny finger. Spring was broke and the insides broken apart, snap ring gone. It dawned on me at the time that the noise I had attributed to direct injection noise for the last several months had actually been timing chain slap from the failed tensioner. Another life wisdom lesson. I had actually contemplated replacing the tensioner the year before. I would say to anyone now to replace the tensioner at 50k miles. Be sure to pull the valve cover to activate the tensioner before start up.

I finished pulling gears and chain. Noticed the left timing chain guide upper bolt had came out, lower bolt sheared. Was able to use an awl and hammer to unscrew sheared bolt. Ran bolt down both thread bores and it seems the aluminum threads in the block are still good. Ordered expensive high strength ARP replacement guide bolts and bushings.

Decided to pull oil pan. Found more plastic, metal pieces and the missing bolt. Order replacement parts.

While cleaning up parts I realized the oil pump was in the front timing cover. Pulled oil pump apart and notice some scatches and nicks. Pulled oil filter out and inspected. The filter looked like a shiny very fine metal flake low rider paint job. Decided right then to replace oil pump. Only one readily available is at dealer as an assembly with cover. Will pick up in morning. Finished cleaning gaskested surfaces and inspecting.

Tomorrow will begin putting back together. I hope my effort will be rewarded when I complete reassembly and start up since the engine was still running when I shut off. Plan to run for a several minutes then change oil and filter again.

I'll update the group and try and post photos after completion. Doubt it would be worth paying a shop to do this work or they would have skipped some steps. Would likely look at rebuilt or junk yard engines once I got their estimate.

Not sure if had to but am also replacing upper VVT sprockets. I find posting photos to group painful since a rarely do it but I'll try.

 

Been there done that! Make sure you take the oil pickup apart. I'm sure you did when you got the pan off. I'm in a similar situation with the wife's SS. I was trying to make life easy changing the intake cam. There's no shortcuts in timing!

Had the exhaust all clamped but it still jumped off the crank. Soon as I get home from Montana I'll be pulling the front cover and resetting.

Good luck with yours, hope all goes well

 

What is that green bar and threaded rod holding?

 

Just curious. How many miles on this SS ?

 

I'm going to assume that bar is in lieu of the jack under the motor. Seeing as how the oil pan is off. I wonder if that's a piece of all thread bolted to the mount.

 

Ouch, at lot to clean up!

 

I did not pull the oil pickup. Pulled the windage tray and bolts that hold pickup but the pickup seemed press fit to the pan at the top. Ran brake cleaner through it. Does it come off?

 

Green bar is strut I had around, and yes it's holding the engine up since the pan is off. That is an eye bolt, turn buckle and all thread on one of the engine mount bolts I also scavenged.

 

Bought used from dealer with less than 10k in 2009 now she has about 66k miles. Has stage one GM turbo kit.

My SWAG is that the tensioner failed and things cascaded from there.

I am contemplating pulling a cap off one of the bearings to do an inspection while the pan is off. I am hoping the oil pump feeds to the filter then to the engine and the metal particles were captured.

I'll try an post a few more photos now that I remember how.

 

Yes it does, glad I mentioned it. Here's what mine looked like when a guide imploded. Its got a bolt holding it in place then you can wiggle it back and forth to get it out.

Take a look, I separated into size and plastic/metal. Not a pretty site!