Glad it's runing nice again. And good guess on the 12646784 part (exhaust side). :)

Too bad we can't get a group buy on code readers - would save a lot of guesswork, or that trip to Autozone to get the codes read.

 

Out of curiosity, has anyone tried to get any of these parts replaced by the dealer under the emissions warranty? Since cam timing has an effect on emissions, and components that effect emissions are supposed to be covered for 8 years, 80,000 miles, I was wondering if anyone pursued that option.

 

I'm sure someone will point it out precisely. There is discussion on this thread or another about the Warrantee. IIRC the Actuators are warranted, while the Sensors are not. The actuators are what most people are replacing.

I hope I remember that correctly.

Here is the link to the warrantee discussion. Sorry if you searched this long thread for something that wasn't here.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/problems-service-repairs-42/clarification-needed-desired-p0011-code-39550/
added link 7 Aug 2012

 

Thanks guys, I knocked this out today; the car's so much quieter. From hood up to hood down was maybe 20 minutes. And yeah, my mileage was horrible.

Now I'm just waiting for the intake solenoid to crap out.

 

Cool! We could have a contest to see who can change them out the fastest?

 

Hello everyone,

My GF has a Cobalt with a 2.2 Ecotec and I suspect that the intake solenoid is bad. Today I decided to use a multimeter and see what the resistance is on the solenoids. Anyhow, the intake solenoid is not giving me a reading at all and the exhaust solenoid is giving me a 13.5ohm reading.

What do you guys think about this?

Thanks ahead for the replies!

 

Well, if you mean the intake is open, i.e. infinite resistance and the Colbalt is the same as the HHR you have a bad intake – replace it and have a good run.

Edit added:
When you are measuring the resistance on the intake, push on the square pins each or the four different ways. Mine failed slowly and if I measured when pushing on the pins just the right way I did get some resistance. This caused me some confusion as sometimes they were somewhat good and other times I measured they were bad. Eventually mine went bad no matter in what direction I pushed on the pines while measuring.

 

The engine is the same as in the HHR.

So if the solenoid is stuck open I won't get a reading on the multimeter? I don't know if its open or not. Her car is getting both codes that reference to this part. P0010 & P0011.

Should the solenoid close when the engine is off? Therefore, giving me a reading on the meter?

Also, when trying to get a reading I trying touching the pins in several different ways.

Symptoms are a rough idle and a somewhat rough ride around 20mph. I believe sometimes it shifts hard going into second.

 

The solenoid is variable, so don't worry if it is physically open or not. What I was trying to get to was that with your Ohm Meter the measurement was infinite ohms - which in electronics is an OPEN. You may think of this as "no reading at all". Confusing, but in electronics a measurement is a measurement even if it seems to be nothing at all.


You can only measure the solenoid when the engine is off so we don't really know what it is doing when the engine is running. However, I believe it is a PWM signal - nothing you can measure with a standard Ohm Meter.

Replace the intake and all should be good.

 

The solenoid is on the way so its getting replaced no matter what. I just want to learn more about this.

So essentially the solenoid can give me a reading or not no matter if its a good part or bad? Sorry if I sound stupid just want to learn.

Also, do you think the 13.5ohm reading on the exhaust solenoid is too high or am I just over-thinking this whole thing? You can be honest!

Thanks for all the quick replies!