![]() |
HOW TO: Rear Disc Brakes
For those of you equipped with rear disc brakes, here is a "how to" change them out as they are a little different from the front disc brakes.
You will need: Jack Jack stand(s) Lug wrench Ratchet Extension 14mm socket 18mm socket Flat tip screw driver Channel locks My car has about 65,500 miles on it, So they did go a bit early, but I don't have the best driving habits... 1)Park the car on a level surface. Loosen the lug nuts, and jack up the side of the car right near the rear tire. I usually jack up the car by the pinch weld, but you can also place the jack under the spot where the suspension mounts to the under-body 2) Place jack stand and remove tire. You should see this (Possibly without the red:D) https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/fil.../7/brakes2.jpg 3) Remove the caliper by removing the two caliper bolts(14mm). Use the channel locks to hold the sliders from rotating. https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/fil.../7/brakes7.jpg 4)Remove the old brake pads. You may need the flat tip screw driver to pry them out. Old vs New. I was way overdue:D https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/fil.../7/brakes6.jpg 5)Remove the caliper mounting bracket by removing the two mounting bolts (18mm) https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/fil.../7/brakes8.jpg 6)Pull the old rotor off. It is a floating rotor so it should come off with a little elbow grease or weapon of your choice. 7)Clean the new rotor with parts cleaner to remove the greasy film from the manufacturer. Then place the new rotor on the hub. If your hub is rusty enough, you may want to use a wire brush and remove most of the rust on the hub, before putting the new rotor on it. 8)Put the caliper mounting bracket back on. You may also want to clean and remove excess rust from this too. 9)Put the new pads on. Should look something like this(I didn't replace my rotors): https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/fil.../7/brakes5.jpg 10)This is the part that's different form the front brakes. The caliper piston DOES NOT get forced back in. You must rotate it clockwise, back into the caliper. This is where the channel locks came in handy. When turning, be careful not to grab the rubber boot with the channel locks https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/fil.../7/brakes3.jpg 11)Make sure your caliper sliders are still functioning, and put the caliper back on...Caliper bolts(or pins) are NOT supposed to be super tight. 30 ftlbs or so. 12)Put you tire back on, and lower the car. Pump your brake pedal until it stiffens up. Also you may have to re-tension the E-brake. Pull up on it a few times to check the tension. 13)Have a beer:twothumbs:(If you are of age of course) If you notice one side of your cars brakes are worn more than the other, than you may have a caliper hanging up, or E- brake hanging up. Also while you have the tire off, you can check other things like struts/shocks etc. |
nice pictures and write up Badassbowtie , looks like you just did this in time, with those thin pads.
|
Nice write up.:thumb:
Glad I don't live up North. Those winter conditions wreck havoc as far as rusting things up. |
Originally Posted by firemangeorge
(Post 722230)
Nice write up.:thumb:
Glad I don't live up North. Those winter conditions wreck havoc as far as rusting things up. |
Instead of using Channel loc pliers, this tool will make things a little easier.
http://i4.ebayimg.com/07/i/001/1c/47/17ed_1.JPG |
Great how-to! Do you recommend lubing the sliders during reassembly?
|
Originally Posted by fanbelt.1
(Post 861594)
Great how-to! Do you recommend lubing the sliders during reassembly?
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:14 AM. |
© 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands