bunkie

A few guys have asked for some details concerning my recent front sway bar change-out so I'll try and show this as best I can. First you'll want to jack up the car and support it with jack stands. I used the frame rails just behind the front wheel wells. If you are doing this without a lift try and get it as high as you can safely support it. With the car supported remove the front wheels. As you will be lowering the subframe down you will need a jack at the rear of the subframe and also at the front as shown in my first picture. The second picture shows the end of the sway bar and these nuts will have to be disconnected. The nut in the lower right is our HHR buddy Moonsign (I didn't have a wrench to fit this one).

bunkie

with the subframe supported and sway bar ends removed, remove the front motor mount bolt. Then remove the three rear motor mount bolts as shown

bunkie

Next step is the loosening of the front subframe bolts-do not remove-back them off about 1/2in.To aid in this step I cut holes in the fairings with a 1 1/2in. hole saw to access the bolts. To remove the fairings looked like a royal pain and I also will probably be swaping out sway bars again before I'm through so why not make things a little easier. After the front bolts are backed down remove the rear bolts again making sure the jack is in place to support it.

bunkie

The next step is the removal of the bushing straps and loosening of the rack&pinion. You may want to drop the sway bar down a little to gain clearance. When the sway bar straps have been removed and the rack & pinion bolts are well backed off drop the subframe down enough to pull the sway bar out. Sometimes a little pinch bar is helpful.

bunkie

OK after you've removed the old bar be sure to lube the new bushings either with the lube provided by the mfg. or use a heavy O-ring lube. Use plenty as I'd rather have a little leak out than suffer a squeeky sway bar forever.So, put the new bar back in remembering the cuts in the bushings should be rearward. Put all the bolts back in and torque to specs. I always like to drive around awhile and then re-torque everything. Now "Lucille" is ready to go ROOT & GOUGE with the best of them.

oneton

Excellent How to . I have been looking at doing this and was not sure if I had to lower the subframe to do it . Well I was thinking that was the only was to get it out but did not want to do it. Now I know. OH for that moonsign nut you need a hammer not a wrench..

peevlos

Bunkie... thanks for the great write up and pics.
I foresee this one in my near future.
Have you noticed a big difference in handling?

bunkie

What it did was provide balance after the installation of the TTR rear sway bar. In other words after you put the rear bar in you notice how lazy the front is and the Eibach front bar cures that. Makes a good combo.

moonsign

To All: I've been trying to find a wrench, to tighted up the ole "Moonsign" nut from many years. So far, no luck. Guess you guys will just have to live with it.
"Moon"

sleeper

bunkie-

Great step-by-step & pics..

Is your SS lowered as well ?

PS: someone has a good looking 53-56 blue Ford in the background !!!