Oldblue

donbrew

J43651 as noted in the file above.

JAN67

I had a water leak in what I believed to be the o-ring on the pipe that goes into the thermostat/temp sensor housing (and I was correct. That o-ring was trashed), so I figured on replacing the water pump since I was going to be in that deep. I have to say it was one of the suckiest jobs I've ever had to do on a car, but thanks to the tips I learned from this forum it was successful. With the car having over 94k on the clock I elected to leave the exhaust manifold where it was, and I really didn't find myself cursing it that much. I was more frustrated with the timing gear side of things. There was very little room to get my hand up there to turn the bolts or see how things lined up. Luckily everything came apart without trouble as I had to use 1/4 drive sockets on a lot of it.

I'll share my tips/lessons learned:
- If you are over 50 and/or are not very flexible, save up your money and pay someone to do it. Three days removed and I am very very sore. My hands and shoulders more than anything.
- A little mirror on a stick is a must. I didn't have one, I wish I did. You will to a lot of this blind due to obstructions.
- A magnet on a stick is also a must. I do have one and it was my MVP on this one.
- You will have to remove the temp sensor, so have some TFE tape on hand for the reinstall.
- I was thankful the front bumper cover extends forward enough to kneel on. I spent a lot of time on that bumper cover reaching over the back of the engine. Put a towel or a foam pad on top of the bumper cover.
- I did not have a 6mm locator pin for lining up the threaded holes the water pump to the timing gear. I took a 3" long piece of dowel rod and sharpened the end like a pencil. I was able to tell where the holes were by feel and rotated the water pump from the inlet side. It only took me two tries, yay me!
- Use a wire brush to clean up the water pipe ends and rep[lace those o-rings. The bad o-ring left a lot of residue on the pipe, which came right off with my wire "toothbrush". I could see that leaking if I didn't clean it up.
- I had a but of trouble burping air out of the cooling system, even with the right front elevated. I wasn't getting heat in the car. I decided to just put the cap back on and drive it around the block. As soon as I put the cap on, I started to get heat. I think the pressure quickly pushed coolant to the heater core.

redslim73

I have the timing chain,balancer/water pump chain off,so there is no need for me to use the water pump tool!Is there a diagram anywhere that shows the necessary steps to get the thermostat bolts off then the pipe that connects to the water pump?

donbrew

Uh, find a ratchet handle, attach the correct size socket (10mm, I think), remove the 3 bolts holding the t-stat housing on, remove housing.

Oldblue

This is a photo of the housing, there are three bolts 10 mm heads torqued to 89 inch pounds, you must remove the temperature sensor before you can access the one bolt. Be sure to use sensor safe compound or Teflon tape to to seal the threads.

This photo shows the engine side of the housing, note the groove for the seal and those two bolt holes , then that other hole below the pipe housing

redslim73

Thx gentlemen!These HHR's are hell on wheels🤣

Oldblue

A note about water pumps, my new Gates did leak a bit at first but it’s dry now!



I thought oh joy, first the howling balance shaft chain and now this drip on the garage floor. But it’s all over now! Thanks Mick !