(another) ABS Question
 

2007 LT2 with 155+ on the clock, second owner so I don't know it's previous life story. This is my daily driver for years and I love it, big enough to haul my growing drum kit and still look sharp. We also use it as a TOAD with our RV using normal "flat tow" config (and this is where my story starts)... We recently were headed to the northeast to visit our kids. First trip for this RV/HHR pair, that night I failed to turn off the power to the remote braking system system so it killed the HHR's battery, in troubleshooting and correctives I shifted the driver's seat forward, that removed the free-play between my brake pedal and the braking unit. Well, I drug the poor thing for about 170 miles with the brakes dragging (honestly I thought it was the RV's transmission learning a new shift profile, needless to say it didn't fare well (I have photos of the remains) ... cut to now,, So far I've replaced (2X) Hubs, Rotors & Pads (they were brand new), Calipers with frames, Hoses, Rod Ends, also looking at replacing two wheels ( they got so hot the plastic valve stem cap melted as did the snap in center caps) along with Drivers side Half Shaft as well as another Lower Control Arm, and 2 new tires since they overheated... Okay now for my question,,,,, Can I clear the ABS fault light without a scan tool or dealer??? Tried the 'Disconnect Battery' trick,didn't change. Thanks for your patience,

:welcomewagon: to the forums!!

The timestamp on your post is 2:01, your HHR's clock being off by about 5 minutes, isn't much of a problem. And there are directions for setting the time, in the owner manual.

I'm kidding, of course, I know you meant the odometer.

If disconnecting the battery didn't clear it, either you need a tool, or the problem still persists.

ABS fault is most likely due to the hub overheating, perhaps all 4 hubs need attention. You mention you replaced hubs, just the fronts?

The only way to make the light go out is to fix the problem that is causing it. If the wheels and axles got that hot the wires surely melted.
I hope that you also replaced the brake fluid.

Yes, Master cylinder was dry, after installing new parts I did a simple vacuum down to get fluid back in the lines. One thread I've read said to said to use a reader (abs compatible) and run a ABS bleed function(???wtf?). haven't been able to open R.Rear bleed screw (looks cross threaded), looks like I'll have to throw in some rear wheel cylinder too.

Not a code reader, a ScanTool. That is a computer with a CAN interface and programming. Some say that is a required procedure, I don't know.
If all of the fluid boiled off there is probably a lot of debris in the system.

I sure things boiled, but the left front caliper hyper extended and the seals melted, gravity did the rest. Vehicle sat in the campground almost 4 weeks before we trailer-ed it back home. I'll get back to it tomorrow, 4th'ing with family today, Thanks to all for the feedback, stay safe and enjoy a cold beverage of your choice.


UPDATE 7/4/22 (the Photo)

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...1bce9c5262.jpg


One of the suggestions was verify ABS connector and wheel-well harness wires, they looked good, no breaks or nicks, but the ole 'ounce of prevention' was running through my noggin so I hit them with a little De-Oxit, While combing thru many post here I found two I felt might apply. First was, Key ON (do not start), press accelerator pedal 3 times, then start. That didn't seem to make a difference. The second was to drive it to give the computer a chance to read the pulses from the hubs. Happy to say I didn't even get 100 feet before the light went out. So now I'm past the "is it worth keeping" and on to ordering the other things (half-shaft and LCA) to make it right, I'll probably throw on new rears now since I know that one cylinder bleeder screw won't open. Thanks again to those who commented and those who have posted their experiences, there is an incredible amount of knowledge here.