How to change your own oil.
#1
How to change your own oil.
A lot ask how to do it, here's my method. Time, 30 minutes.
HHR Oil Change
This is on the 2006 2.2 motor. But should be the same for the 2.4. This is literally the easiest oil change I have ever done.
This oil had 6374 miles on it. The OLM was at 15%. This is what I do for MY oil changes, not yours. YMMV
Parts needed
A method of lifting the vehicle (ramps or stands)
5 quarts 5w-30 oil (your choice)
1 Filter (your choice)
15mm socket for the drain plug
32mm socket for the filter cap (yes there is an SAE socket for the cap, but I preferred the metric), extension is very helpful.
Drain pan
Rags
First of all, get the vehicle up in the air.
(The drips on the ground are from the A/C)
Locate drain plug under vehicle. It is on the passenger side. It take a 15mm socket. Place drain pan under before taking the bolt out.
Once the oil is drained, put the plug back in. If you are using the old plug, I recommend wiping it down good. If you are using a new plug, be sure it has the correct gasket/washer. Then move the drain pan forward some. The position of the filter is great, you probably don’t need the drain pan there, but better safe than sorry.
Using the 32mm socket and extension, loosen the top of the oil filter cap. Once your “crack” the seal, you can unscrew the rest by hand. The filter comes out with the cap, they snap together.
Here is look into the canister with the filter out.
Place a rag under the filter and lift it out. I set mine on the drain pan so it can drain. Here is a shot of the two filters.
I know a lot of people get “alarmed” at the wrinkles in the old filter. Just remember that this filter has had oil flowing through it. You probably just never noticed it before since most filters you can’t see the elements inside.
Wipe the base of the cap off to make sure you didn’t get any dirt on it. Snap the new filter onto the cap and reinstall. You can tighten mostly by hand. I give it a good snug at the end to make sure it’s tight.
Wipe up any excess oil that may have dripped.
Take off the filler cap and put in 5 quarts of oil. You may want to only put in 4.5 quarts at first just in case you didn’t get a full drain. Then you can top off.
Start it up and let it run for a minute or two while you check for any leaks. If no leaks, pull down off the ramps/stands. Shut it down. After you clean up your tools and put things away. Check the oil level again. Top off as needed.
Have a beer.
HHR Oil Change
This is on the 2006 2.2 motor. But should be the same for the 2.4. This is literally the easiest oil change I have ever done.
This oil had 6374 miles on it. The OLM was at 15%. This is what I do for MY oil changes, not yours. YMMV
Parts needed
A method of lifting the vehicle (ramps or stands)
5 quarts 5w-30 oil (your choice)
1 Filter (your choice)
15mm socket for the drain plug
32mm socket for the filter cap (yes there is an SAE socket for the cap, but I preferred the metric), extension is very helpful.
Drain pan
Rags
First of all, get the vehicle up in the air.
(The drips on the ground are from the A/C)
Locate drain plug under vehicle. It is on the passenger side. It take a 15mm socket. Place drain pan under before taking the bolt out.
Once the oil is drained, put the plug back in. If you are using the old plug, I recommend wiping it down good. If you are using a new plug, be sure it has the correct gasket/washer. Then move the drain pan forward some. The position of the filter is great, you probably don’t need the drain pan there, but better safe than sorry.
Using the 32mm socket and extension, loosen the top of the oil filter cap. Once your “crack” the seal, you can unscrew the rest by hand. The filter comes out with the cap, they snap together.
Here is look into the canister with the filter out.
Place a rag under the filter and lift it out. I set mine on the drain pan so it can drain. Here is a shot of the two filters.
I know a lot of people get “alarmed” at the wrinkles in the old filter. Just remember that this filter has had oil flowing through it. You probably just never noticed it before since most filters you can’t see the elements inside.
Wipe the base of the cap off to make sure you didn’t get any dirt on it. Snap the new filter onto the cap and reinstall. You can tighten mostly by hand. I give it a good snug at the end to make sure it’s tight.
Wipe up any excess oil that may have dripped.
Take off the filler cap and put in 5 quarts of oil. You may want to only put in 4.5 quarts at first just in case you didn’t get a full drain. Then you can top off.
Start it up and let it run for a minute or two while you check for any leaks. If no leaks, pull down off the ramps/stands. Shut it down. After you clean up your tools and put things away. Check the oil level again. Top off as needed.
Have a beer.
#2
Very well presented.
It matches my procedure, except that my drain pan is a different color.
Yves
It matches my procedure, except that my drain pan is a different color.
Yves
#3
Hey Soleman, I need your advice about something,
I try to change Wheelie's oil every 3 months, I don't drive much at all, by the time the 3 months come, Wheelie's OLR (Oil Life Readout) shows approx. 83 percent, My question is, is it a good idea to change Wheelie's oil anyway?, or can I drive him another 3 months safely?
Thanks!!
I try to change Wheelie's oil every 3 months, I don't drive much at all, by the time the 3 months come, Wheelie's OLR (Oil Life Readout) shows approx. 83 percent, My question is, is it a good idea to change Wheelie's oil anyway?, or can I drive him another 3 months safely?
Thanks!!
#4
Hey Soleman, I need your advice about something,
I try to change Wheelie's oil every 3 months, I don't drive much at all, by the time the 3 months come, Wheelie's OLR (Oil Life Readout) shows approx. 83 percent, My question is, is it a good idea to change Wheelie's oil anyway?, or can I drive him another 3 months safely?
Thanks!!
I try to change Wheelie's oil every 3 months, I don't drive much at all, by the time the 3 months come, Wheelie's OLR (Oil Life Readout) shows approx. 83 percent, My question is, is it a good idea to change Wheelie's oil anyway?, or can I drive him another 3 months safely?
Thanks!!
#6
As an add-on to Solman's excellent post.
The torque specs for the oil cap and the drain plug are 25 Nm or 18 ft/lb.
The torque specs for the oil cap and the drain plug are 25 Nm or 18 ft/lb.
Last edited by Black Rose; 09-11-2007 at 01:16 PM. Reason: Removed extra word
#7
Wheelie, my (unsolicited) opinion is...in your unique situation, I'd recommend going to about 50% readout between oil changes.
#8
Nice work, Solman....
Clear, concise...well thought out, for the presentation.
May I add, and this is each individuals choice, after pulling the pan drain plug, go to the oil filter and perform the filter change. That way, the oil has time to drain more COMPLETELY, as you are performing other tasks (on the test cars, GM had a written procedure to allow drainage for 30 minutes). Then reinstall the drain plug and refill.
Just a suggestion....that I have followed for many, many years
But again, nice work, Solman.
Clear, concise...well thought out, for the presentation.
May I add, and this is each individuals choice, after pulling the pan drain plug, go to the oil filter and perform the filter change. That way, the oil has time to drain more COMPLETELY, as you are performing other tasks (on the test cars, GM had a written procedure to allow drainage for 30 minutes). Then reinstall the drain plug and refill.
Just a suggestion....that I have followed for many, many years
But again, nice work, Solman.
#9
Thanks solman, very nice. I also do my own oil changes and I thought I read somewhere to remove the filter as you drain the oil. I could be wrong on that one, but that's the only thing I do different. Well that and I slide under the car on the ground, with no ramps, which if I gain any more weight will be impossible Again, nice job.