I assume that the engine has to be running, at operating temperature, and in Park when checking the level. Is that correct?

If so, my plan after draining and installing the new filter, was to refill with some amount close to what was actually drained (e.g., 5-6qts). I'll then start the engine, warm it up, run through the various gears, put in Park, leaving running and then check the fluid at the "check" plug. Does that sound correct?

Thanks,
M Ridzon

Perfect

Did you completely miss post #7 in your complete reading and piecing together? That was referred to in the post above yours. I'm not sure how the labels could be better, please let me know how, I will fix it.

Here are 2 of the results from the 10 pages of search results; hint: change Threads to All.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/main...ge-easy-42736/
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...ank-you-58202/

The new filter will come with a new bushing top put in the mounting hole; the old one is a huge pain to remove. I didn't replace it.

I edited post #1, so now it approaches reality.

There is now a tutorial in the "how-to" area. https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...25/#post817832

I'm not able to see photos. I need to do this for my Hhr 2010. Thanks

Look at Donbrew’s link.

Alright seriously, I have 265,000 miles on my 2007 HHR.

At 175,000 miles the HHR started shifting hard and rough and could not figure out why. Took it to a trans shop and they were talking about rebuilding the trans... for 3500, not happening. After a while, I had to dig deep to figure out other possible reasons why the car would be shifting so hard. It was the darn VVT solenoids. Dirty oil WILL plug them up and you WILL have to replace them.

I stated my above milage because my transmission shifts just fine and doing a transmission fluid change will not solve the issue. It will just irritate the crap out of you. Before you start placing blame on your transmission, make sure you replace those solenoids. If you do not resolve the rough shifting issue, it WILL wear down the transmission, and wear it down FAST.

And you will not always get an OBD code on it. Sometimes you will, and you will also get the ABS/Traction Control Disabled lights on too. but do not mess with that trans, unless you know you have an issue.

Note: I have oil viscosity test kits. My trans oil viscosity still registers normal.

Hope this provides some benefit to someone.

Sudden hard shifting is usually triggered by the OBD system. Certain trouble codes, CEL's or whatever you want to call it will put the car in "limp mode".
Could be VVT solenoids OR any other of the hundreds of CEL codes that will put it in limp mode.
Don't blame the VVT solenoids without pulling the codes 1st.

^^^ That!

And the relationship to this thread is ......?

I believe that the hard shifting has been addressed in about 250 threads.

Might be an excellent idea to create an entire sub-forum about shifting and trans issues?

Like Don says, hard shifting can be caused by a whole mess of different problems. and the hard shifting is like a by-product or symptom of the various problems.

The problems themselves are covered in their respective sections and threads - we don't want to get into devoting sub-forums to the by-products as such. And the SEARCH tool at the top of the page sure helps narrow down the time it takes to cross-reference the symptom/by-product to the "fix" or "fixes".

We’d have sub forums for subs if the sub forum, and yes the search tool pops up a wide selection of threads

Having issues with transmission on a 2009 hhr . I changed transmission lines on hhr. Filled transmission till it came out check port. I have reverse but no drive . I did drive care till there was very little fluid in it.it took 10 quarts to fill it. Any ideas.

Should only be 6.7 quarts. You checked the full port while the engine was running , right?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...fc84d51fd3.png

Uh oh! I'm suspect. 10qts! It takes about 7qts for just the pan removal. Of course, pan removal doesn't empty out several quarts captured in the torque converter and other nooks/crannies of the transmission. So my guess would be that it takes about 10qts when bone dry and it sounds like you ran it that low. I'd be suspect of internal damage. Perhaps others here can chime in with more hopeful advice, but it doesn't look good from what I can tell.

Best of luck!

I don't think you could run it till it was "bone dry" and dumped 10 qts out. Hell, it would quit pulling after loosing 3-4 qts. I doubt anyone would just keep trying to make it move while dumping an additional 4-5 qts on the ground in one spot.
But then again......................

I'm honestly not sure. I agree that the logic doesn't all add up. But I'm just going by what he said when he mentioned dumping 10qts in it. Presumably, the trans took all 10qts, and it didn't just dribble into NeverLand!:roflol:

It might have been leaking for awhile just didn’t notice it till it started slipping. When was slipping I babied it to a parking lot. Than got it towed home. I may have to much fluid in it. Would that cause to slip?
line was leaking so replaced the lines. No fluid came out when took old lines off.

Too much fluid can be detrimental. Whether or not the manifested symptom is slippage, I don't know. But I can assure you that too much, can be problematic, in various ways. When you check the fluid, you're suppose to have the engine running, trans in Park. If not, you'll get incorrect readings.

When you take the cooler lines off, you should get a little bit of drippage. Maybe a pint or so. Nothing significant though.

And that most likely damaged the transmission. Best to find a good shop. A rebuild or replacement trans. looks like it's needed.