Checking and/or changing transmission fluid
#41
That is a 'check' plug. There is no 'drain' plug, unless the pan has been outfitted with one, or replaced with a pan that has one.
Yes, refill via the filler cap on the top, with the vehicle level, until the fluid is at the bottom of the 'check' hole.
The Haynes manual has the whole procedure, but also warns that it "is best left to a professional shop with a safe lifting apparatus".
Yes, refill via the filler cap on the top, with the vehicle level, until the fluid is at the bottom of the 'check' hole.
The Haynes manual has the whole procedure, but also warns that it "is best left to a professional shop with a safe lifting apparatus".
If so, my plan after draining and installing the new filter, was to refill with some amount close to what was actually drained (e.g., 5-6qts). I'll then start the engine, warm it up, run through the various gears, put in Park, leaving running and then check the fluid at the "check" plug. Does that sound correct?
Thanks,
M Ridzon
#43
Did you completely miss post #7 in your complete reading and piecing together? That was referred to in the post above yours. I'm not sure how the labels could be better, please let me know how, I will fix it.
Here are 2 of the results from the 10 pages of search results; hint: change Threads to All.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/main...ge-easy-42736/
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...ank-you-58202/
The new filter will come with a new bushing top put in the mounting hole; the old one is a huge pain to remove. I didn't replace it.
I edited post #1, so now it approaches reality.
Here are 2 of the results from the 10 pages of search results; hint: change Threads to All.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/main...ge-easy-42736/
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...ank-you-58202/
The new filter will come with a new bushing top put in the mounting hole; the old one is a huge pain to remove. I didn't replace it.
I edited post #1, so now it approaches reality.
#44
There is now a tutorial in the "how-to" area. https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...25/#post817832
#45
Hi, I changed the fluid.
It took about 1 hour. It is not difficult.
There is a photo guide.
http://bigmotors.by/forum/viewtopic....8&p=4640#p4640
Ready to share experiences. :)
p.s. I think the difficulty with the transfer does not occur.
It took about 1 hour. It is not difficult.
There is a photo guide.
http://bigmotors.by/forum/viewtopic....8&p=4640#p4640
Ready to share experiences. :)
p.s. I think the difficulty with the transfer does not occur.
#47
Alright seriously, I have 265,000 miles on my 2007 HHR.
At 175,000 miles the HHR started shifting hard and rough and could not figure out why. Took it to a trans shop and they were talking about rebuilding the trans... for 3500, not happening. After a while, I had to dig deep to figure out other possible reasons why the car would be shifting so hard. It was the darn VVT solenoids. Dirty oil WILL plug them up and you WILL have to replace them.
I stated my above milage because my transmission shifts just fine and doing a transmission fluid change will not solve the issue. It will just irritate the crap out of you. Before you start placing blame on your transmission, make sure you replace those solenoids. If you do not resolve the rough shifting issue, it WILL wear down the transmission, and wear it down FAST.
And you will not always get an OBD code on it. Sometimes you will, and you will also get the ABS/Traction Control Disabled lights on too. but do not mess with that trans, unless you know you have an issue.
Note: I have oil viscosity test kits. My trans oil viscosity still registers normal.
Hope this provides some benefit to someone.
At 175,000 miles the HHR started shifting hard and rough and could not figure out why. Took it to a trans shop and they were talking about rebuilding the trans... for 3500, not happening. After a while, I had to dig deep to figure out other possible reasons why the car would be shifting so hard. It was the darn VVT solenoids. Dirty oil WILL plug them up and you WILL have to replace them.
I stated my above milage because my transmission shifts just fine and doing a transmission fluid change will not solve the issue. It will just irritate the crap out of you. Before you start placing blame on your transmission, make sure you replace those solenoids. If you do not resolve the rough shifting issue, it WILL wear down the transmission, and wear it down FAST.
And you will not always get an OBD code on it. Sometimes you will, and you will also get the ABS/Traction Control Disabled lights on too. but do not mess with that trans, unless you know you have an issue.
Note: I have oil viscosity test kits. My trans oil viscosity still registers normal.
Hope this provides some benefit to someone.
#48
Sudden hard shifting is usually triggered by the OBD system. Certain trouble codes, CEL's or whatever you want to call it will put the car in "limp mode".
Could be VVT solenoids OR any other of the hundreds of CEL codes that will put it in limp mode.
Don't blame the VVT solenoids without pulling the codes 1st.
Could be VVT solenoids OR any other of the hundreds of CEL codes that will put it in limp mode.
Don't blame the VVT solenoids without pulling the codes 1st.
#49
Sudden hard shifting is usually triggered by the OBD system. Certain trouble codes, CEL's or whatever you want to call it will put the car in "limp mode".
Could be VVT solenoids OR any other of the hundreds of CEL codes that will put it in limp mode.
Don't blame the VVT solenoids without pulling the codes 1st.
Could be VVT solenoids OR any other of the hundreds of CEL codes that will put it in limp mode.
Don't blame the VVT solenoids without pulling the codes 1st.