I would suggest going to a repair or transmission shop and have them take a look.

Trying to diagnois this over the internet is a little hard to do. No offense, but sounds like you're not that mechanical minded with this type of problem(based on some of your post comments)

Best to let a professional take a 1st hand look.

Again. Not trying to offend you, just suggesting the best way to find an answer.

True that - that is what I was trying to say but neglected to clarify that MINE were closed capped (like a lot of them these days) and you can't make a blanket statement. Oh well.

OP - that 1/8- 1/4 " slop seems excessive - I can't remember how much slop there was on my replacements, but that does seem excessive.

That's why I keep a set of regular opened end nuts from a LS in my tool box for just that purpose,cause my tuner nuts don't fully seat and having the rotor tight on the hub is the only way to check for runout on the rotors and hubs. They don't use capped nuts on the new 5 spoke steelies on the later model LT's either.

The holes lug holes on my rotors are a good 1/4 inch larger than the bolts.
The inner end of the axle is a slip joint thing, there are 3 wheels in a cage kind of thing lots of slop built in, I'm not sure how much up/down is acceptable. I don't know if the "old" up/down test still holds for the outer end.

Seals are no big deal if they aren't dripping.

Well, I don't know the right way to get the picture up here. Check your PM.

I don't take offense but I am not sure what I said to make you think that. It is, as you say, difficult to diagnose this over the internet. It is even more difficult to describe the things you see and convert it into a text that everyone will understand. Sometimes I describe things in a way that makes perfect sense to me, but then someone asks a question that I thought was answered in what I said. So then I must go back and try to put down more details so that the text accurately describes what I want it too.

That being said, I do all my own mechanics, I have rebuilt an engine and modified a Toyota four wheel drive with lift kits and all. So its not about mechanical ability or mindedness. Its about specific knowledge.

I have never dealt with a CV axle, this is new to me. I dont know what the characteristics of the axle are supposed to be.

That is my question: What is the proper characteristic of the CV axle?
Can you describe it to me?
Please do.

Sorry 06burntorange, like I said, I didn't want to offend you but apparently I did. So. Sorry again.

Fwiw. I was just giving a suggestion based on some of the things you said.
Saying-"There is two ends of the axle right?" well I just assumed you didn't have the mechanical know how.

For the record then:
The axle has 2 ends the inner end is a type of slipjoint called a tri-pot, the outer end is more like what you would call a CV bearing. They are not like the old VW CVs with bearings on both ends.

Hehe, well sorry for my way of conversation. Yes, it was technically a question, but I wasn't really asking a question. It was more of a "flag" to indicate to the reader what I was about to talk about.

I will try to improve my communication skills in the future.

:thumb:

No worries

Back to the subject,
I got my replacements for the Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors and replaced them today.
I guess I was wrong about the play between the lug studs and the rotor holes. I have not seen that much play before, but admittedly I have little experience with brakes. I am used to working on older stuff. Logically thinking I would expect less play. I still say its too much. But this set mounts the same as the last, and everyone who reviews these says they work great.

While I was down there, I did check the driver side CV to compare how it moves with the otherside. It moves in the same way. Again, this is logic speaking and not experience, but I would expect no up and down movement.
Since I dont get any clunking, or other symptoms as per the manual, (:cool:), I am going to assume this movement is a natural characterisitic of these CV's.

Therefore I will focus on the strut and the get the wheel balance checked.

Yes there is another symptom that showed up after I took the wheel off the first time. (before I replaced the brakes) There was a vibration that showed up between 60 and 65 miles. This added to my suspicion of the brakes since all I did was remove the wheel, and checked the CV and moved the rotors back and forth measuring the movement. I was thinking maybe I mounted the wheel on with the rotors slightly out of balance. But this appears to be not the case. I was wrong.

As far as I know what could cause this is the wheel somehow came out of true, or the strut is really bad and causing this.

Can a strut cause this?
(on my way to review this section of the manual)

60-65 screams wheel balance/bent rim.