Berdoo

new (3rd) owner of a '11 LT1 with 120,000 miles. well kept vehicle (other than the original cabin air filter). it had the ol' brake judder feel in the front end under heavy braking or when coming to a complete stop. it didn't happen when i just used the parking brake to stop the car so i pretty much ruled out rear brake issues. also the transmission would occasionally shift erratically usually when well warmed up. no CEL nor codes show on the OBDII scanner.

i pulled the front wheels off and inspected the brake pads, rotors, suspension, steering arms, etc. Brake pads and rotors were in good shape as well as everything i could lay my hands and eyes on. then pulled the rear tires off to check the rear brakes. after removing the tire and the locking washers from the hub (car on stands and parking brake released) i couldn't pull the hub off even after tapping all around with a rubber mallet to loosen it. did i miss something? that's all that's in the book as far as removal...hmm
moving on...
now that i no longer need the ac for awhile i decided to pull the fuses (#15 & #22 under the hood). i also don't like that the ac comes on when the cab air recirculating button is pushed. while doing this i noticed that a couple of the larger fuses/relays appeared to be crooked/kawked() slightly to one side so i pushed them all down until straight and secure. several moved quite a bit more than i would consider "normal" for a fuse that should be securely installed.

after buttoning everything up i went for another ride to warm up the car and do some more checks...

the brakes stopped juddering...completely...they worked perfectly (and still do 500 miles later).

the transmission shifted perfectly (and still does 500 miles later).

in my case the brake juddering and funky transmission were results of loose fuses/relays in the fuse block.

moral of this story- add "check ALL fuses " to your list of things to do when something mechanical goes wrong...

YOUR results may vary...

donbrew

Rubber hammer is the wrong tool! You need a 2.5 lb short handle sledge and lots of WD40 or whatever, then while beating it to death use a pry bar wedged between the backing plate and the drum to gently pry. They have been on for 8 years now and rust between the hub & drum locks them.

If it was me I would just put all new rear brakes on, they are most likely glazed.

Why would you want stale air in the cab? The heater should be ready to go in 2 minutes, so that's no reason. The A/C is also supposed to come on in defrost, for good reason (to get rid of moisture in the air). You are not the first, most usually go back.

Berdoo

yea, i was thinking about the frosty windshield thing after i pulled the fuses so you may be right about going back...

there are times when on the road i dont want to smell whatever is outside while maintaining the temperature that is inside. the interior of my beast has been kept pretty clean by the previous owners and i can handle my own stench pretty well so...

i was about to get the big tools out but thought i'd get some experienced advice first...

thanks for your input donbrew

donbrew

If it is cold outside you can still mix heat in; it just comes out as hot dry air.