inner fender removal
10-13-2016, 01:38 PM
#1
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inner fender removal
So I figure at 160,000+ probably about time to replace my accessory belt. Just gonna remove the tire and inner fender. Problem is, I am not sure what all I have to remove. I have removed clips to change bulbs, but I have never taken it all the way out.
And what is with the this timing chain/ adjuster noise? I can safely say that has never been replaced. Is it easy to check, just remove the cover and see what it is doing?
And what is with the this timing chain/ adjuster noise? I can safely say that has never been replaced. Is it easy to check, just remove the cover and see what it is doing?
10-13-2016, 03:51 PM
#2
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Here is on lengthy discussion about the serpentine belt. Bottom line is you don't remove the inner fender, you modify or invent a special tool.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/main...ne-belt-31446/
Do you mean you have timing chain noise?
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/main...ne-belt-31446/
Do you mean you have timing chain noise?
10-13-2016, 04:09 PM
#3
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Yeah, it could be timing chain noise. It used to be occasionally, or just during first couple minutes. Now it seems more constant. Could be piston slap I suppose. Some chevy engines are known for that, not sure about the 2.4, though.
I looked at that thread, but some people removed the inner fender, some didn't. Didn't really want to undo a motor mount, but i'll see how it goes.
I looked at that thread, but some people removed the inner fender, some didn't. Didn't really want to undo a motor mount, but i'll see how it goes.
10-13-2016, 04:36 PM
#4
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Check out this thread https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...r-kudos-48187/
But if you're getting timing noise, you may want to pull the valve cover and check the chain for slop. Your guides and/or timing tensioner may be shot.
But if you're getting timing noise, you may want to pull the valve cover and check the chain for slop. Your guides and/or timing tensioner may be shot.
10-13-2016, 06:06 PM
#5
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Well, then I will condense the thread for you.
2-3 methods work well
1. buy the serpentine tool and cut the handle
2. get a 3/8 X 13/16 male to male adapter grind it down to fit the space (this was my solution)
3. Get the car up in the air, remove the plastic shield and attack it from the bottom with the standard tool (tried it, it didn't work on jack stands).
4. some folks have used a jack under neath the car to push the pulley up with a 2X4.
None of the solutions actually remove the inner fender; You can get to the hole in the metal without doing that, but it does not help. In order to use the oblong hole, to remove the idler, not the belt, you will need to remove the motor mount and jack the engine up.
FWIW; the "book" is just wrong about how to do it on an HHR.
If you are determined to remove the inner fender; look for all of the connectors, there are at least 2 types of push ins and at least 2 screws. Then worry all of the edges out of wherever they are tucked.
BTW, my comments in that thread about removing the motor mount don't actually help with the standard length tool.
A rattle on cold start for a few minutes is the classic death rattle of a timing chain. You might get lucky and a new tensioner will keep the engine from self destructing for a while.
Give the search tool at the top of each page a whirl, you will be surprised at how much info has collected in the last 11 years. You will need to do a lot of reading and winnowing since there is so much noise.
2-3 methods work well
1. buy the serpentine tool and cut the handle
2. get a 3/8 X 13/16 male to male adapter grind it down to fit the space (this was my solution)
3. Get the car up in the air, remove the plastic shield and attack it from the bottom with the standard tool (tried it, it didn't work on jack stands).
4. some folks have used a jack under neath the car to push the pulley up with a 2X4.
None of the solutions actually remove the inner fender; You can get to the hole in the metal without doing that, but it does not help. In order to use the oblong hole, to remove the idler, not the belt, you will need to remove the motor mount and jack the engine up.
FWIW; the "book" is just wrong about how to do it on an HHR.
If you are determined to remove the inner fender; look for all of the connectors, there are at least 2 types of push ins and at least 2 screws. Then worry all of the edges out of wherever they are tucked.
BTW, my comments in that thread about removing the motor mount don't actually help with the standard length tool.
A rattle on cold start for a few minutes is the classic death rattle of a timing chain. You might get lucky and a new tensioner will keep the engine from self destructing for a while.
Give the search tool at the top of each page a whirl, you will be surprised at how much info has collected in the last 11 years. You will need to do a lot of reading and winnowing since there is so much noise.
10-14-2016, 10:32 AM
#6
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Death rattle huh, every so often I hear this noise, and it's been for the last 80,000 miles probably! Still, I will check and see what is happening in there. Just in case. Might be something totally different.
Did some looking on youtube to see if I could find the equivalent sound.
Mine sounds about like this
It is not as loud as this
Did some looking on youtube to see if I could find the equivalent sound.
Mine sounds about like this
It is not as loud as this
Last edited by vinmansbrew; 10-14-2016 at 11:05 AM.
10-14-2016, 12:06 PM
#7
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Read the 16 page monster on the timing chain tensioner.
Seems to me that at 160,000+ miles, all new parts would be needed to actually fix the problem, guides, chain, sprockets, ect. I also assume, since I have the 06 2.4, it is the old tensioner, as it sounds like the redesigned unit wasn't available till 09.
Sounds like the unit is on the back of the engine, is that right? I think I will take off the valve cover first, and have a look before I go yanking out parts. Might be able to tell more then. Or I just run it till it dies. I've never been particularly attached to this car. Lousy mpg, beyond terrible handling on snow and ice. Other assorted stupid design issues that never should have made it past the drawing board.
Seems to me that at 160,000+ miles, all new parts would be needed to actually fix the problem, guides, chain, sprockets, ect. I also assume, since I have the 06 2.4, it is the old tensioner, as it sounds like the redesigned unit wasn't available till 09.
Sounds like the unit is on the back of the engine, is that right? I think I will take off the valve cover first, and have a look before I go yanking out parts. Might be able to tell more then. Or I just run it till it dies. I've never been particularly attached to this car. Lousy mpg, beyond terrible handling on snow and ice. Other assorted stupid design issues that never should have made it past the drawing board.
10-14-2016, 12:23 PM
#8
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Read the 16 page monster on the timing chain tensioner.
Seems to me that at 160,000+ miles, all new parts would be needed to actually fix the problem, guides, chain, sprockets, ect. I also assume, since I have the 06 2.4, it is the old tensioner, as it sounds like the redesigned unit wasn't available till 09.
Sounds like the unit is on the back of the engine, is that right? I think I will take off the valve cover first, and have a look before I go yanking out parts. Might be able to tell more then. Or I just run it till it dies. I've never been particularly attached to this car. Lousy mpg, beyond terrible handling on snow and ice. Other assorted stupid design issues that never should have made it past the drawing board.
Seems to me that at 160,000+ miles, all new parts would be needed to actually fix the problem, guides, chain, sprockets, ect. I also assume, since I have the 06 2.4, it is the old tensioner, as it sounds like the redesigned unit wasn't available till 09.
Sounds like the unit is on the back of the engine, is that right? I think I will take off the valve cover first, and have a look before I go yanking out parts. Might be able to tell more then. Or I just run it till it dies. I've never been particularly attached to this car. Lousy mpg, beyond terrible handling on snow and ice. Other assorted stupid design issues that never should have made it past the drawing board.
Lousy MPG? Must be something else going on; 32 highway/26 city is the usual.
Front wheel drive is great on ice & snow, except that the front is so low it catches deep snow.
Stupid design issues, must be a personal thing; why buy something you think is stupid? Once I got used to the window buttons I look for them on every car I'm in.
10-14-2016, 12:44 PM
#9
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OK so the 2.4 has the tensioner the 2.2 got later. So it may be fine. The engine does have 160,000+ and they do tend to make noise as they wear, so maybe. Still popping the valve cover probably wouldn't hurt anything.
This car has never gotten 32 mpg, ever unless the wind was pushing it. At least not at 70mph+. At 60, it might, on a good day, hit 30. This is all on flat land. I even had injectors changed out as the engine ran so rich when I got the car at 15,000 miles, that the injectors were trashed. New injectors have not done that. So, maybe faulty original parts.
Mechanically, the car has been solid. My gripes are things like the door locks sticking up. Not being able to turn the dome light on without being Richard Reed. Things like that.
I have had fwd cars for years. This car is worse than my 2wd 4cyl s10 ever was. Turning on snow or ice is merely a suggestion. One that the car may or may not follow. I am lucky I live on flat land, otherwise studs or chains would be standard all winter long. It's a good thing I had bought this car in the summer. Had I test drove it in the winter, I would have run from it and never looked back. Snow tires make things a slightly stronger suggestion, but that is about it. And yes, I have lived around snow my whole life. My 96 cutlass supreme didn't weigh any more but would run circles around this thing in the winter.
This car has never gotten 32 mpg, ever unless the wind was pushing it. At least not at 70mph+. At 60, it might, on a good day, hit 30. This is all on flat land. I even had injectors changed out as the engine ran so rich when I got the car at 15,000 miles, that the injectors were trashed. New injectors have not done that. So, maybe faulty original parts.
Mechanically, the car has been solid. My gripes are things like the door locks sticking up. Not being able to turn the dome light on without being Richard Reed. Things like that.
I have had fwd cars for years. This car is worse than my 2wd 4cyl s10 ever was. Turning on snow or ice is merely a suggestion. One that the car may or may not follow. I am lucky I live on flat land, otherwise studs or chains would be standard all winter long. It's a good thing I had bought this car in the summer. Had I test drove it in the winter, I would have run from it and never looked back. Snow tires make things a slightly stronger suggestion, but that is about it. And yes, I have lived around snow my whole life. My 96 cutlass supreme didn't weigh any more but would run circles around this thing in the winter.
10-14-2016, 01:07 PM
#10
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Your vehicle has atypical problems. Mine would get 32 MPG in hilly country at 70 MPH. Once I decided that the factory just might be right about tire pressure I never had a problem on ice. I suspect that you may have bad LCA bushings, they only last about 60K-80K miles in my experience.
If the injectors were running that rich there should have been at least a CEL for the problem AND a clogged cat con. Somebody modified/broke/ignored something.
Door locks sticking is probably because somebody removed the panels for some reason and reinstalled them without proper care. There is a channel that the wire needs to fit in that is very easy to miss, done that.
I have no idea what you mean about the dome light; I had a 2008 and a 2011, 2 different designs, that I had no problem with. The 2008 was "touch the light" the 2011 was twist the dimmer switch. Never looked at 2006 model.
If the injectors were running that rich there should have been at least a CEL for the problem AND a clogged cat con. Somebody modified/broke/ignored something.
Door locks sticking is probably because somebody removed the panels for some reason and reinstalled them without proper care. There is a channel that the wire needs to fit in that is very easy to miss, done that.
I have no idea what you mean about the dome light; I had a 2008 and a 2011, 2 different designs, that I had no problem with. The 2008 was "touch the light" the 2011 was twist the dimmer switch. Never looked at 2006 model.
