working on it

Last Sunday, after using my Torque Pro app / Bluetooth ELM327 clone, I found the codes that keep recurring on my HHR. P0010 and P0011. I researched those codes, researched the forum too, and it seems to me that my problems may not be the same as some others. If I am getting these codes, then I should also be getting a TC light and have hard-shifting problems as well. I haven't experienced any other codes, nor any hard-shifting, and no TC lights. The only drivability problem I've felt is a sorta "surging/misfire" when in hi-speed stop-and-go traffic (the accordion type), as I come to a stop. It smooths out if I have the A/C on. The CELs would come and go by themselves before; now, for a week, I have been clearing the dash light, but this evening, as I left the gas station where I first got the CEL (long ago), the CEL popped up again...and won't clear. So, far, no flashing CEL, but I now know the problem won't go away on its own. My question is : has anyone had the camshaft actuator solenoid replacement work, or is it just a temporary fix prior to timing chain replacement? I've read posts where it didn't help, or maybe I just missed the post I need to see. Also, the prices of the replacement part vary from $25 to $55 online. What is the price at a dealer? I'm gonna try it this weekend, before it gets worse. Another thing: if dirty oil is seen to be the prime cause of the solenoid failure, I'm going to switch away from the Mobil One I've always used in the HHR, to Royal Purple, which I trusted in my race motors. My warranty has expired, so why not?

whopper

has anyone had the camshaft actuator solenoid replacement work
Yes!

What is the price at a dealer? Call your dealer - they don't all charge the same price.

Another thing: if dirty oil is seen to be the prime cause of the solenoid failure, No it isn't - most of them fail due to an electrical issue (loss of continuity or out-of spec resistance)

working on it

. I got the above quote from a previous post of yours....But your "electrical continuity" reference points to a question I asked in my scanner thread (did I cause the problem by perhaps dis-lodging the connectors when I changed the air filter, and again when I changed the plugs?-paraphrased quote-). I successfully, finally, cleared the codes this morning; I drove to and from work like a scalded dog (i.e. the panel ran perfect...even great), until 5 miles from home (60 miles commute each way). When I pulled into the driveway, it was running like an old tractor, and sounded like one. And about a mile from home, it was surging/chugging at 1500 rpm (only). Still no TC lights, or weird hard shifts. The P0010 reappeared, with P0011 pending (I cleared before I shut off the panel). I am going to replace the intake cam actuator tomorrow (if I can get the part), and change the oil as well. I'll also clean the MAF, and use dielectric grease when I re-connect all plugs. As a related thought: in previous posts, I had related that my 2.2L was accelerating better than ever, though gas mileage was dropping, and I couldn't fathom why the performance increase...well, since the P0011 code indicates "advanced" timing, then maybe that's what has been happening for awhile, though the CELs have just recently appeared. Just a theory.

whopper

My comment was in regards to your post about "dirty oil is seen to be the PRIME cause of the solenoid failure" - and my response was NO it is not.

When one says "sometimes the problems are caused by contamination in the solenoid" - the key word in the sentence is SOMETIMES - which does not in anyway translate into the word PRIME. I don't know how I can make it any clearer.

Tip for you - if you are troubleshooting a problem, do not shot-gun the problem by doing several fixes at the same time. Ie: you say you want to clean the MAF at the same time.

At this point there is no indication that the MAF is causing any problem is there? So why mess with it - they are a pretty sensitive item, and you may just complicate things or generate a new problem. As they say "If it isn't broke, don't fix it".

working on it

I just was going to do some PM while the air cleaner was removed: the MAF grid was cleaned at 50k miles, and I should've done it again when I did the plugs awhile back, but didn't have a can of cleaner handy. I usually clean the MAF on my vehicles every 50K anyway, but have become less maintenance conscious lately; been too focused on my trailer project for too long. I even had my tires rotated for me last week, instead of doing it myself (getting old and tired).

working on it

Took the air cleaner off at 9:45am, cleaned the MAF at 10:15am (misplaced tork bits, again), cleaned the throttle body and the area around the actuators at 10:30am. Going smoothly. Then the problems: the connector lock broke when I "gently" removed it (every third one for the last ten years), and the actuator needed a tap from a wooden dowel to come free (10 minutes to locate and fabricate the dowel). Then the new actuator (Chevy dealer part) slid in, was tightened down, and the broken connector (primed with dielectric grease) was cinched down to the part with a 4" tie-wrap at 11am. Air cleaner back on, MAF hooked up, engine started at 11:15am. Took two tries to start (must've used too much cleaner on the TB), but at 11:20am the codes were cleared. After a break in the action, I took 20 minutes or so to change the oil, put away the tools in another 10, and was done by 12:15pm. No hurry, or worry, despite the sticking actuator and broken connector. I had thought it might take all afternoon! After a shower, I drove the wife to and from the Wally world, a 20 mile round-trip. I had Torque Pro running, and no codes were set or pending. It drove like it had long ago, before the codes, or even before the gas mileage started going down. I reset the MPG on the DIC, and will report back (in a few hundred miles) if it increases the mileage back above the 26-28mpg it has been getting recently. Thanks, whopper, for your guidance, it does work as advertised.

whopper

Glad you got it done - yeah, those clips on the connector for the solenoid are a bit tricky (you aren't the first one to break the connector) - but glad you got it up and working again. Crossing my fingers for you that the CEL and code does not come back.

ChevroletCustomerService

I'm happy to know that your vehicle is working back to your satisfaction. Also glad you were able to solve the problem.

Jessica L.
Chevrolet Customer Care