Washing Your HHR
03-16-2006, 03:29 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 02-20-2006
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 49
Washing Your HHR
In my other posts, I have been asked some interesting questions about detailing your HHR. For many of you this is your first or best new car and you really want to take care of it. I have also seen methods discussed that worked several years ago when we did not have the "tools" for washing that we have today. As I stated in another post, I am a part time detailer for high end car shows, along with dealing in MF towels.
I thought this might be of interest to many of you. It is extremely detailed and your level of interest will vary.
Washing Your Car
There is always a debate on proper washing techniques, many wash the wheels first, the bottoms up approach, many wash top down. There is the single bucket approach, and the two bucket approach.
The goal is to get the car clean with the minimum damage to your paint. I will document what I feel are the best methods and why
Tools: The tools used range from sponges, wash mitts, hand towels, brushes, Mr. Clean Filter System for washing to cotton and Microfiber towels, to old T-shirts, Leather and Artificial Chamois and rags for drying.
I prefer a Wash Mitt for washing the car and quality Microfiber or 100% White Cotton Towels Made in the USA(They must be made in the USA)
Car Wash Soap: Never wash your car with just water!! You need a lubricant to help move the dirt off the surface of the paint. Plain water will not do that and you end up using unnecessary pressure to move the dirt.
Always use a Car Wash Soap, the chemical balance is set to not be harsh on your paint or surrounding trim. Liquid dishwashing detergent is too harsh to use consistently. While it won’t ruin your paint, although there are many raging debates to the contrary, I have never seen anything “scientific” to prove that is the case.
Dishwashing detergent is good for those once in a great while washings to prep your car for waxing/polishing. It is pretty harsh, and I don't recommend it on a regular basis.
Sponges, and there are some exceptions, T-Shirts, Colored towels, diapers, etc have a tendency to scratch. T-Shirts and Diapers have no nap to capture dirt, so they will drag it across the surface. Colored Terry Cloth towels and foreign made towels have a tendency to mix cotton and Polyester which will scratch the paint. The dye used to color towels has a tendency to harden the material which will cause scratches.
Mr. Clean Filter System I have tested this with mixed results. I really like the filter system. It traps the mineral content in the water to really cut down on the potential of swirls. It also helps eliminate water spots and allows water to dissipate without creating water spots. That is a huge benefit in the summer or people who have extremely hard water.
I think the initial soak cycle is a bit too strong and the rinse cycle is a bit weak. The filters only last a few washes in a harsh hard water environment, so be prepared to spend $$$ on filters. The Car Wash was OK, but it had a tendency to be sticky and the Wash Mitt seems to hold onto the dirt even after washing it in the washing machine.
I used another Car Wash with equal cleaning results and no stickiness.
I am also not a huge fan of Leather and Artificial Chamois. They are too flat and there is no place for the dirt to go. While you may have just washed the car, there is mineral content in the rinse water and the Chamois will drag that across the paint. Plus if there is any wind, dust can land on the paint surface and get dragged across the surface.
If you have any doubts about what you are using to wash and dry your car, rub the item over a recorded side of a CD with medium pressure in one direction. If you see scratches in the rubbed direction, you have found the cause of your paint swirls.
Washing Methods: The single bucket method combines the wash and rinse water in a single bucket. It’s not bad and is the generally practiced method. You can add a “Grit Guard” to the bottom of your bucket to help alleviate dirt being worked up and put back into your Mitt. A “Grit Guard” is a “webbed” piece of plastic that fits in the bottom of the bucket. The “webs” have a tendency to trap the dirt that has sunk to the bottom and hold it there, rather than let it get sloshed around and reattach itself to your Mitt.
The two bucket method has the wash/soapy water in one bucket and rinse water in a second. Rinsing your wash mitt in a second bucket keeps your wash water much cleaner and decreases your chances of dragging dirt across the finish.
Let start with the basics:
Never wash you car in direct sunlight if you can help it. When the surface is hot, the soapy water will dry to quick, and the rinse water will leave behind water spots(mineral deposits left behind when water dries in large drops)
I wash my cars in early morning or the evening when the sun is not so direct.
Always “water” your car down before washing. Run water over the entire car before starting the wash cycle. It helps soften the dirt and makes removal a touch easier.
Do not use a jet like, blasting spray, it has a tendency to push the dirt into the paint surface and drag it along the surface before it gets blasted off. Use a gentle spray for the initial soaking
I prefer the top down method of washing versus bottoms up. Here is why; The top of the car is generally the cleanest, and gets dirtier the closer you get to the ground. That means you are moving a smaller amount of dirt and leaving a smaller amount of dirt in the wash or rinse water.
The bottoms up method of washing, pulls a larger quantity of dirt off the car in the beginning cycle of the wash and leaves it in your wash/rinse water. The increased quantity of floating dirt increases the chances of some small amount getting dragged across the paint surface.
I have seen some posts telling you to wash the wheels first. I don’t agree, you are washing off very fine brake pad dust first and potentially dragging it across your paint surface.
I wash the top first, then rinse, the hood and grill area, and rinse. Next are the sides to just above the rocker panel, and rinse. Next is the rear end, which has a tendency to collect more dirt than the sides, wash and rinse. Then I go back around the lower portion of the sides and the wheel wells, wash and rinse. Finally the wheels, wash and rinse. If it is extremely warm, I will dry the car first, then do the wheels. Getting the water dried as soon as possible should be kept in mind to prevent water spots from forming.
Rinsing: The best trick for reducing the amount of water left on the paint surface is to let a slow film of clean water run over the surface. This has a tendency to let the water slide off the surface and reduces the amount of water left on the surface to dry. Harsh blasting or jet like rinsing leaves large beads/puddles.
On a side note this is one of the greatest tricks used by Snake Oil Car polish salesman. They let the water gently run off of their demo piece and claim their product has increased protection and helps reduce the amount of water stuck to the surface. Ask them to drop water on their demo piece from two feet in the air and see the results. I haven’t found one yet that will do that.
While some of this might be a bit fanatical, once you follow at least the basics of the above methods, it becomes a habit and you will keep your paint in decent condition.
Drying:
As stated always use 100% White Cotton towels or quality Microfiber Towels(They should be at least an 80/20 mix and tested on a CD)
Drying is much simpler than washing. I use my hands to push water off of the surface. It reduces the amount of towels needed to dry the car. With a towel, start with the top and work my way down. Do the windows at the same time, I am drying the rest of the car, but if it is very warm out, I have a second towel to completely dry the windows and prevent water spots from forming.
Other methods of drying:
Leaf Blower – Use a leaf blower to blow the water off the car. This is a pretty nifty method for getting water out of the mirrors, and those spots that have a tendency to bleed water. It also reduces the chances of water spotting and reduces the number of towels needed to dry the car.
Make sure it is clean before you use it on the car. I would hate to have a stick come flying out and scratch the paint.
California Water Blade/Squeegee – These are great for getting rid of rinse water and drastically reduce the number of towels needed to dry the car. My biggest concern in using these is dragging it across a spot of dirt that got missed during the wash cycle. I have seen some pretty serious scratches made by these when they were dragged across a missed wash spot.
To Summarize:
I prefer the following method for washing:
Top down
Gently soak the entire car with water first
Use a good quality car wash soap and water
Use a good quality mitt or 100% White Cotton wash towel
Start washing from the top down
Hood & grill
Sides almost all the way down
Rear
Finish the sides
If it is extremely warm and the rinse water is drying, dry the car then do the wheels
Wheels.
Gently run rinse water over the car
For drying:
Good quality 100% White Cotton towels or quality Microfiber towels, or leaf blower
Hand Squeegee the big chunks of water
Dry top down
If warm have a second towel handy to dry the windows
I hope this at least gives you some ideas and methods. As I stated in the beginning, this is pretty extreme, you can adjust your washing methods to suit your own tastes.
I thought this might be of interest to many of you. It is extremely detailed and your level of interest will vary.
Washing Your Car
There is always a debate on proper washing techniques, many wash the wheels first, the bottoms up approach, many wash top down. There is the single bucket approach, and the two bucket approach.
The goal is to get the car clean with the minimum damage to your paint. I will document what I feel are the best methods and why
Tools: The tools used range from sponges, wash mitts, hand towels, brushes, Mr. Clean Filter System for washing to cotton and Microfiber towels, to old T-shirts, Leather and Artificial Chamois and rags for drying.
I prefer a Wash Mitt for washing the car and quality Microfiber or 100% White Cotton Towels Made in the USA(They must be made in the USA)
Car Wash Soap: Never wash your car with just water!! You need a lubricant to help move the dirt off the surface of the paint. Plain water will not do that and you end up using unnecessary pressure to move the dirt.
Always use a Car Wash Soap, the chemical balance is set to not be harsh on your paint or surrounding trim. Liquid dishwashing detergent is too harsh to use consistently. While it won’t ruin your paint, although there are many raging debates to the contrary, I have never seen anything “scientific” to prove that is the case.
Dishwashing detergent is good for those once in a great while washings to prep your car for waxing/polishing. It is pretty harsh, and I don't recommend it on a regular basis.
Sponges, and there are some exceptions, T-Shirts, Colored towels, diapers, etc have a tendency to scratch. T-Shirts and Diapers have no nap to capture dirt, so they will drag it across the surface. Colored Terry Cloth towels and foreign made towels have a tendency to mix cotton and Polyester which will scratch the paint. The dye used to color towels has a tendency to harden the material which will cause scratches.
Mr. Clean Filter System I have tested this with mixed results. I really like the filter system. It traps the mineral content in the water to really cut down on the potential of swirls. It also helps eliminate water spots and allows water to dissipate without creating water spots. That is a huge benefit in the summer or people who have extremely hard water.
I think the initial soak cycle is a bit too strong and the rinse cycle is a bit weak. The filters only last a few washes in a harsh hard water environment, so be prepared to spend $$$ on filters. The Car Wash was OK, but it had a tendency to be sticky and the Wash Mitt seems to hold onto the dirt even after washing it in the washing machine.
I used another Car Wash with equal cleaning results and no stickiness.
I am also not a huge fan of Leather and Artificial Chamois. They are too flat and there is no place for the dirt to go. While you may have just washed the car, there is mineral content in the rinse water and the Chamois will drag that across the paint. Plus if there is any wind, dust can land on the paint surface and get dragged across the surface.
If you have any doubts about what you are using to wash and dry your car, rub the item over a recorded side of a CD with medium pressure in one direction. If you see scratches in the rubbed direction, you have found the cause of your paint swirls.
Washing Methods: The single bucket method combines the wash and rinse water in a single bucket. It’s not bad and is the generally practiced method. You can add a “Grit Guard” to the bottom of your bucket to help alleviate dirt being worked up and put back into your Mitt. A “Grit Guard” is a “webbed” piece of plastic that fits in the bottom of the bucket. The “webs” have a tendency to trap the dirt that has sunk to the bottom and hold it there, rather than let it get sloshed around and reattach itself to your Mitt.
The two bucket method has the wash/soapy water in one bucket and rinse water in a second. Rinsing your wash mitt in a second bucket keeps your wash water much cleaner and decreases your chances of dragging dirt across the finish.
Let start with the basics:
Never wash you car in direct sunlight if you can help it. When the surface is hot, the soapy water will dry to quick, and the rinse water will leave behind water spots(mineral deposits left behind when water dries in large drops)
I wash my cars in early morning or the evening when the sun is not so direct.
Always “water” your car down before washing. Run water over the entire car before starting the wash cycle. It helps soften the dirt and makes removal a touch easier.
Do not use a jet like, blasting spray, it has a tendency to push the dirt into the paint surface and drag it along the surface before it gets blasted off. Use a gentle spray for the initial soaking
I prefer the top down method of washing versus bottoms up. Here is why; The top of the car is generally the cleanest, and gets dirtier the closer you get to the ground. That means you are moving a smaller amount of dirt and leaving a smaller amount of dirt in the wash or rinse water.
The bottoms up method of washing, pulls a larger quantity of dirt off the car in the beginning cycle of the wash and leaves it in your wash/rinse water. The increased quantity of floating dirt increases the chances of some small amount getting dragged across the paint surface.
I have seen some posts telling you to wash the wheels first. I don’t agree, you are washing off very fine brake pad dust first and potentially dragging it across your paint surface.
I wash the top first, then rinse, the hood and grill area, and rinse. Next are the sides to just above the rocker panel, and rinse. Next is the rear end, which has a tendency to collect more dirt than the sides, wash and rinse. Then I go back around the lower portion of the sides and the wheel wells, wash and rinse. Finally the wheels, wash and rinse. If it is extremely warm, I will dry the car first, then do the wheels. Getting the water dried as soon as possible should be kept in mind to prevent water spots from forming.
Rinsing: The best trick for reducing the amount of water left on the paint surface is to let a slow film of clean water run over the surface. This has a tendency to let the water slide off the surface and reduces the amount of water left on the surface to dry. Harsh blasting or jet like rinsing leaves large beads/puddles.
On a side note this is one of the greatest tricks used by Snake Oil Car polish salesman. They let the water gently run off of their demo piece and claim their product has increased protection and helps reduce the amount of water stuck to the surface. Ask them to drop water on their demo piece from two feet in the air and see the results. I haven’t found one yet that will do that.
While some of this might be a bit fanatical, once you follow at least the basics of the above methods, it becomes a habit and you will keep your paint in decent condition.
Drying:
As stated always use 100% White Cotton towels or quality Microfiber Towels(They should be at least an 80/20 mix and tested on a CD)
Drying is much simpler than washing. I use my hands to push water off of the surface. It reduces the amount of towels needed to dry the car. With a towel, start with the top and work my way down. Do the windows at the same time, I am drying the rest of the car, but if it is very warm out, I have a second towel to completely dry the windows and prevent water spots from forming.
Other methods of drying:
Leaf Blower – Use a leaf blower to blow the water off the car. This is a pretty nifty method for getting water out of the mirrors, and those spots that have a tendency to bleed water. It also reduces the chances of water spotting and reduces the number of towels needed to dry the car.
Make sure it is clean before you use it on the car. I would hate to have a stick come flying out and scratch the paint.
California Water Blade/Squeegee – These are great for getting rid of rinse water and drastically reduce the number of towels needed to dry the car. My biggest concern in using these is dragging it across a spot of dirt that got missed during the wash cycle. I have seen some pretty serious scratches made by these when they were dragged across a missed wash spot.
To Summarize:
I prefer the following method for washing:
Top down
Gently soak the entire car with water first
Use a good quality car wash soap and water
Use a good quality mitt or 100% White Cotton wash towel
Start washing from the top down
Hood & grill
Sides almost all the way down
Rear
Finish the sides
If it is extremely warm and the rinse water is drying, dry the car then do the wheels
Wheels.
Gently run rinse water over the car
For drying:
Good quality 100% White Cotton towels or quality Microfiber towels, or leaf blower
Hand Squeegee the big chunks of water
Dry top down
If warm have a second towel handy to dry the windows
I hope this at least gives you some ideas and methods. As I stated in the beginning, this is pretty extreme, you can adjust your washing methods to suit your own tastes.
Last edited by ultramicrofiber; 03-16-2006 at 05:43 AM.
03-16-2006, 07:32 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: 10-26-2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 630
Thanks for the input steve! What's your opinion on clay bars? I just started using them and I really believe they make a huge difference especially when used with the zaino car wash (lubricant) I will never go with out. I feel this a good thing for we who live in the dreaded salt states. That first wash after winter is important to me, usually a 3 to 4 hour process that's including waxing...just my .02!
03-16-2006, 09:03 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: 02-23-2006
Location: Mesa Arizona
Posts: 2,529
Just my little bit of input, I do use the mr clean system, but just to soap up the car and to rinse with the filter system. I still do all the washing by hand and dry the car. The Mr clean works ok to help prevent water spots but still will leave them. I live in Arizona and we have some real hard water.
Doing it this way seems to take a little longer, but when it comes to your HHR you can never send to much time.
Doing it this way seems to take a little longer, but when it comes to your HHR you can never send to much time.
03-16-2006, 10:18 AM
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 02-20-2006
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 49
Excellent additions.
fenris222, love Clay Bars. I have another post devoted to just that subject that I will put up shortly.
dbarberaz - Good point, you still need to go over the car with a Mitt using the Mr. Clean system.
monster5601 - I have done the leaf blower trixk a few times, my neighbors thought I had finally lost it. Mine is a vacum/blower which I use more as a vacum. I found little bits and pieces of leaves would still get loose and pop out, but they are not shot at enough velocity to do damage. I know people who love this method have one just for the car.
fenris222, love Clay Bars. I have another post devoted to just that subject that I will put up shortly.
dbarberaz - Good point, you still need to go over the car with a Mitt using the Mr. Clean system.
monster5601 - I have done the leaf blower trixk a few times, my neighbors thought I had finally lost it. Mine is a vacum/blower which I use more as a vacum. I found little bits and pieces of leaves would still get loose and pop out, but they are not shot at enough velocity to do damage. I know people who love this method have one just for the car.
03-16-2006, 11:06 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: 02-15-2006
Location: So Cali
Posts: 746
Originally Posted by ultramicrofiber
fenris222, love Clay Bars. I have another post devoted to just that subject that I will put up shortly.
Steve, thanks for all the great advice. If possible, please post the claybar info soon--Saturday is HHR day and my baby is gonna be treated like a queen.
