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LED Bulb Replacement - Load Equalizer Questions

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Old 10-24-2016, 02:30 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
I'd recommend "don't change out those third brake light bulbs" the LED bulbs don't play well with the cruise control.
Will be fine if he uses, or has to use a load resister there too...

The reason things fail, is the current is low, and the BCM doesn't see the load and
thinks the bulbs are burned out.

If I have to use load resisters, then I don't use LEDs. The whole idea on using LEDs is
for the lower current draw. Using the resisters just increases that back to near what it
should be, thus there is no benefit ti using LEDs except for looks...
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Old 10-24-2016, 04:10 PM
  #12  
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LED bulbs are like switches and can show as a short there by causing issues with the cruise control per

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/hhr-...control-37076/
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Old 10-24-2016, 04:58 PM
  #13  
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LEDs are like switches? Perhaps. A diode is made up of a P-Type and an N-Type semiconductor.
P-Type has "missing" electrons (in a sense); N-Type has extra electrons (in a sense). This means that
if you have current going through the two semiconductors from N-type into P-type, it should be easier
than normal to apply the current because there is a potential difference between the N-type and
P-type because of their relative "positivity" and "negativity". If you reverse the voltage, then you are
going against this potential difference, hence the voltage is impeded, resulting in 0 current flow. This
will only happen until the reverse voltage exceeds a threshold amperage, at which point
the current will flow in reverse. If it were a switch, no no current could travel in reverse, ever.

A zener diode cannot be used as switch.

A PN junction diode can act as a switch. A diode is voltage and current sensitive it follows an exponential
curve and lower then .6v it is considered off and above .6v is considered on. When the diode is
reversed biased (positive charge applied to the N side negative charge applied to the P side) no
current can flow just like when switch is off. When the diode is forward biased (positive charge applied
to the P side and the negative charge applied to the N side) no current can floe like when a switch is
on. Current can only flow in one direction like when a switch is on, current can only flow in one
direction.

HOWEVER, Your argument precludes that current needs to be at or above the threshold for the
LED to be considered in the "ON" state. That is not the case here...

LEDs don't put out voltage, they draw less current, therefore there is a lower load on the factory
circuit components. Since less current is passed through the LEDs, less voltage is dropped across the
LED lamps. This causes a FAULT in the control module, as it does not see the current draw at OEM
spec, therefore, the module believe the bulb is burned out; thus cruise does not work.

ADDING the resister in parallel WILL satisfy the circuit.

From another forum:
Originally Posted by marbles454
i put the load resistors in thanks for the wire color code kdeatrick. they worked, my cruise control is back up and working while using LEDs for my light bulbs. It would be great if they made the LED bulbs with the load resistors built in but its more money for them i guess. Thanks again
RL-650 Load Resistor kit to fix cruise control.

You can put a RELAY in parallel, the voltage drop across the coil will satisfy the circuit.
2 wires to the light, one lead to pin 85, the other lead to pin 86, boom... I did this with my
Silverado's hi-mount.
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Old 04-01-2017, 07:20 PM
  #14  
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I installed those same bulbs in my 2008 HHR SS taillights and they do blink very fast. Is that a problem? Everything seems to be working fine.

Someone suggested I install a flasher unit for LEDs. Where would I find one of those?
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Old 04-01-2017, 09:09 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by dooscoop32
I installed those same bulbs in my 2008 HHR SS taillights and they do blink very fast. Is that a problem? Everything seems to be working fine.

Someone suggested I install a flasher unit for LEDs. Where would I find one of those?
They flash fast because electrically they do not draw enough, thus the resistors that this thread is about. Whoever sold you the LEDs should be able to tell you how to fix it.

There is no flasher on your HHR, it is controlled by the BCM (computer).

Did you read ANY of the thread?
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Old 04-01-2017, 09:40 PM
  #16  
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I get my LED bulbs for all my vehicles from one vendor and they supply the resistors required if needed to make them all work perfect.

E mail me if you need to know who this vendor is, will not diclose on open discussion causing some "hurt" feelings.

Not stepping on anyones toes, just do not want to hurt anyone.
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Old 04-01-2017, 10:53 PM
  #17  
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Well I bought them from Auto Zone so there is no use in asking them what to do about this. But my real question now is; Does this hurt anything for them to blink fast?
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Old 04-02-2017, 07:43 PM
  #18  
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No, hyper flashing LEDs won't hurt your HHR but might get the attention of the local police, they might think it's flashing fast cause of a burnt out bulb!
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Old 04-02-2017, 09:28 PM
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Thanks, Oldblue. Mine don't really blink exceedingly fast. They are just faster than they were with the old bulbs. I don't think the cops are going to notice them.

I used to have a '32 Ford street rod with LED taillights, not just the bulbs. The light kit came with the appropriate flasher to slow them down so I knew this would be a possibility when I bought the LED bulbs for the HHR. I just didn't know it didn't have a flasher until after I installed them.

But as long as the hyper blinking won't harm anything, I'm just going to live with them like they are. It's no big deal.
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Old 04-03-2017, 08:42 AM
  #20  
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Drive on! I've installed LEDs and the resistors like the manufacturer suggests, they get hot, I wasn't seeing any benefit, so I went back to the filament bulbs.
I did have these spider lights in for a summer or two , cop gave me a verbal warning for modifying a safety system on the car.
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