LED Bulb Replacement - Load Equalizer Questions
#11
The reason things fail, is the current is low, and the BCM doesn't see the load and
thinks the bulbs are burned out.
If I have to use load resisters, then I don't use LEDs. The whole idea on using LEDs is
for the lower current draw. Using the resisters just increases that back to near what it
should be, thus there is no benefit ti using LEDs except for looks...
#12
LED bulbs are like switches and can show as a short there by causing issues with the cruise control per
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/hhr-...control-37076/
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/hhr-...control-37076/
#13
LEDs are like switches? Perhaps. A diode is made up of a P-Type and an N-Type semiconductor.
P-Type has "missing" electrons (in a sense); N-Type has extra electrons (in a sense). This means that
if you have current going through the two semiconductors from N-type into P-type, it should be easier
than normal to apply the current because there is a potential difference between the N-type and
P-type because of their relative "positivity" and "negativity". If you reverse the voltage, then you are
going against this potential difference, hence the voltage is impeded, resulting in 0 current flow. This
will only happen until the reverse voltage exceeds a threshold amperage, at which point
the current will flow in reverse. If it were a switch, no no current could travel in reverse, ever.
A zener diode cannot be used as switch.
A PN junction diode can act as a switch. A diode is voltage and current sensitive it follows an exponential
curve and lower then .6v it is considered off and above .6v is considered on. When the diode is
reversed biased (positive charge applied to the N side negative charge applied to the P side) no
current can flow just like when switch is off. When the diode is forward biased (positive charge applied
to the P side and the negative charge applied to the N side) no current can floe like when a switch is
on. Current can only flow in one direction like when a switch is on, current can only flow in one
direction.
HOWEVER, Your argument precludes that current needs to be at or above the threshold for the
LED to be considered in the "ON" state. That is not the case here...
LEDs don't put out voltage, they draw less current, therefore there is a lower load on the factory
circuit components. Since less current is passed through the LEDs, less voltage is dropped across the
LED lamps. This causes a FAULT in the control module, as it does not see the current draw at OEM
spec, therefore, the module believe the bulb is burned out; thus cruise does not work.
ADDING the resister in parallel WILL satisfy the circuit.
From another forum:
RL-650 Load Resistor kit to fix cruise control.
You can put a RELAY in parallel, the voltage drop across the coil will satisfy the circuit.
2 wires to the light, one lead to pin 85, the other lead to pin 86, boom... I did this with my
Silverado's hi-mount.
P-Type has "missing" electrons (in a sense); N-Type has extra electrons (in a sense). This means that
if you have current going through the two semiconductors from N-type into P-type, it should be easier
than normal to apply the current because there is a potential difference between the N-type and
P-type because of their relative "positivity" and "negativity". If you reverse the voltage, then you are
going against this potential difference, hence the voltage is impeded, resulting in 0 current flow. This
will only happen until the reverse voltage exceeds a threshold amperage, at which point
the current will flow in reverse. If it were a switch, no no current could travel in reverse, ever.
A zener diode cannot be used as switch.
A PN junction diode can act as a switch. A diode is voltage and current sensitive it follows an exponential
curve and lower then .6v it is considered off and above .6v is considered on. When the diode is
reversed biased (positive charge applied to the N side negative charge applied to the P side) no
current can flow just like when switch is off. When the diode is forward biased (positive charge applied
to the P side and the negative charge applied to the N side) no current can floe like when a switch is
on. Current can only flow in one direction like when a switch is on, current can only flow in one
direction.
HOWEVER, Your argument precludes that current needs to be at or above the threshold for the
LED to be considered in the "ON" state. That is not the case here...
LEDs don't put out voltage, they draw less current, therefore there is a lower load on the factory
circuit components. Since less current is passed through the LEDs, less voltage is dropped across the
LED lamps. This causes a FAULT in the control module, as it does not see the current draw at OEM
spec, therefore, the module believe the bulb is burned out; thus cruise does not work.
ADDING the resister in parallel WILL satisfy the circuit.
From another forum:
i put the load resistors in thanks for the wire color code kdeatrick. they worked, my cruise control is back up and working while using LEDs for my light bulbs. It would be great if they made the LED bulbs with the load resistors built in but its more money for them i guess. Thanks again
You can put a RELAY in parallel, the voltage drop across the coil will satisfy the circuit.
2 wires to the light, one lead to pin 85, the other lead to pin 86, boom... I did this with my
Silverado's hi-mount.
#14
I installed those same bulbs in my 2008 HHR SS taillights and they do blink very fast. Is that a problem? Everything seems to be working fine.
Someone suggested I install a flasher unit for LEDs. Where would I find one of those?
Someone suggested I install a flasher unit for LEDs. Where would I find one of those?
#15
There is no flasher on your HHR, it is controlled by the BCM (computer).
Did you read ANY of the thread?
#16
I get my LED bulbs for all my vehicles from one vendor and they supply the resistors required if needed to make them all work perfect.
E mail me if you need to know who this vendor is, will not diclose on open discussion causing some "hurt" feelings.
Not stepping on anyones toes, just do not want to hurt anyone.
E mail me if you need to know who this vendor is, will not diclose on open discussion causing some "hurt" feelings.
Not stepping on anyones toes, just do not want to hurt anyone.
#19
Thanks, Oldblue. Mine don't really blink exceedingly fast. They are just faster than they were with the old bulbs. I don't think the cops are going to notice them.
I used to have a '32 Ford street rod with LED taillights, not just the bulbs. The light kit came with the appropriate flasher to slow them down so I knew this would be a possibility when I bought the LED bulbs for the HHR. I just didn't know it didn't have a flasher until after I installed them.
But as long as the hyper blinking won't harm anything, I'm just going to live with them like they are. It's no big deal.
I used to have a '32 Ford street rod with LED taillights, not just the bulbs. The light kit came with the appropriate flasher to slow them down so I knew this would be a possibility when I bought the LED bulbs for the HHR. I just didn't know it didn't have a flasher until after I installed them.
But as long as the hyper blinking won't harm anything, I'm just going to live with them like they are. It's no big deal.
#20
Drive on! I've installed LEDs and the resistors like the manufacturer suggests, they get hot, I wasn't seeing any benefit, so I went back to the filament bulbs.
I did have these spider lights in for a summer or two , cop gave me a verbal warning for modifying a safety system on the car.
I did have these spider lights in for a summer or two , cop gave me a verbal warning for modifying a safety system on the car.