When i bought the car it had 2 different keys. The ignition key is plain key round hole with the + on iy. Door key has the bowtie emblem on it with the + on it. Use to be able to unlock door with one key and hurry up and put the other in ignition before flashers went off. Not surw why it has 2 different keys. Now it doesn't matter what i do the security light flashes fast. The keys were laying in driver's front floorboard when in was wielded on passenger rear rear tire for exhaust bracket. It was a arc wielder. Could it have! Messed up the keys signal? Is theew any why to tell if the keys are bad?

 

Try this procedure that fixed the issue that sometimes when you jump start a GM it triggers the security system.

Step 1: Insert key and turn to on. (Not start) The security warning light will be on. Leave in this condition for 10 min, or untill light goes out.
Turn key off

Step 2: Turn to on (not start) the security warning light will be on. Leave in this condition for 10 min or untill light goes out.

Turn Key off

Step 3: Turn to on (not start) the security warning light will be on. Leave in this condition for 10 min or untill the light goes out.

Turn Key off

Step 4: Car will start!!!!!!

 

If the recalls were done correctly, then you should only have 2 keys that are the same. The ignition and the door lock should use the same key.
There were 2 separate recalls about the ignition switch and the key cylinder. Sounds like either shoddy recall work or the previous owner did some key work after the recalls.

P.S. You should get a key fob. Makes the opening lock/unlock sequence a whole lot easier. Then you’d only need 1 key.

 

I've tried that several times. No matter what the security light never stops flashing. It doesn't go off or change speed. Just a constant fast flash

 

One more thing the release for if your key gets locked in ignition is zip tied holding the lever in. It was already like this when I got it. U did remove zip tie but key lock in ignition everytime and > have to push rod to release the key i know its wrong but i just put the zip tie back around it

 

Well tje wires going to the ignition switch were twisted together with heat shrink around them i doubt a gm tech did it

 

You need to put a scan tool on it and see what's going on.

 

Did you check on the recall? (link in my sig).
The "EVAP code" is the vent circuit is fried. That is behind the gas tank, you may have fried it or the fuse for it. If it was on before the valve might be bad.
The arc would not mess with the key. The PK3 part was already screwed up. Are you sure you have a good title? Sounds a lot like a stolen car.
Somebody replaced the ignition switch from a junkyard and diddled to make it work instead of doing it right.
I might try doing the new key procedure in your Owner Manual (link in my sig) assuming the door key is the original and your ignition key is the new one.
A GM dealer parts department or a locksmith can match a key to your VIN.

 

Who changed out the ignition? How long have you owned this?

 

I've owned car 4 months. Vin matches title did title search and came back clean. At one point it was bought at auction in Mexico and brought here. I have no idea who changed the ignition. Was like that when i got it