to help a family member with their hhr. I'm not sure what happened originally but he said the car would act up not wanting to start but then it would start and run fine. Then one day the starter hung up and he had to disconnect the battery to get it to stop. Well then it started just fine and drove after that. Next time he tried to start it he said the starter smoked. He replaced the starter and no crank no start. I have tested the ignition switch with a volt meter and have 12v on the brown wire in acc. Then I turn to run and still have 12v on the brown wire and I gain 12v on the yellow wire. Then I turn to start position and lose power on the brown wire but I keep it on the yellow wire while trying to start. So I belive that part is working correctly. There is also a white/black stripe wire and a white wire. The white/black should have 5v. I am not getting that 5v. I have checked the c2/x2 connector on the bcm pin #62 with the ignition in all positions and I never gain the 5v. I only have 0.3v at all times. Is this a bad bcm? Is there something with the key when I stick it into the ignition that triggers the bcm to start sending the 5v or is it just a constant at all times 5v signal? Thanks for any help or input.

 

The key switch is a digital sensor not an old fashioned analog switch. There is a resistor in it for start/run; all of that testing was a waste of time.
Has the under hood fuse box EVER been removed? The 4 bolts inside it need to be very very tight, past fear of stripping.
There is a sensor around the keyway that the key must be matched with, you can't just go buy a new key from HomeDepot it must have the + in a circle icon and be matched to the car (instructions in the Owner Manual).
I suspect that you are failing to mention a CheckEngineLight and the codes that cause it.

If the starter released the magic smoke chances are good wires, fuses and relays also fried.
Did you check for 12 volts at the starter? At he fuse box? The large red wire on the side of the fuse box comes directly from the battery and goes directly to the starter then to the alternator.

There was a problem with 2006 not turning off; I don't remember the fix.

Has the ignition switch recall been done? Link in my sig to find out.

 

Which engine ? 2.2 or 2.4
Which trans ? Auto or 5 speed

 

No the fuse box has not been removed so I'm sure the bolts are not an issue but I can check. The key being used is the one that has always been used with the plus in the circle. I have checked the wires and fuses. All wires to the starter seem to be ok and fuses are good. I only had to replace the fuse to the cigarette lighter/obd port. I don't know why that fuse was popped I can only assume it's either been that way or it popped when the starter smoked. I have jumped the starter at the starter itself and at the relay. This is a 2.2 automatic.

 

Those bolts can cause problems if they are loose!

 

Has anybody ever had trouble with the 5v key resistor signal not coming to the ignition?

 

Yes I believe the ignition switch recall has Ben done I looked on nhtsa and it said it was good

 

The front auxiliary 12v outlet is the only other device on the fuse. That fuse usually blows because somebody thinks it is a cig lighter.
Fuse #8 and #10 on the BCM are for the PK3 circuits.
There are probably fried connections inside the fuse box. Is there 12 v at the starter? Is the starter relay good? Is the starter solenoid good? Is there 12.6 v at the fuse box.
If you are using the mobile site you might not see my sig where there are links to repair manuals and Owner Manuals:
https://www.chevrolet.com/support/ve...manuals-guides
http://charm.li/
https://my.chevrolet.com/recalls

 

Ok yes I can see the links you posted I just need to dig through and find pin 62 on the bcm for the key resistor and see what activates the 5volts to the ignition. The key drops the 5v to a lesser voltage and sends it to either the bcm or ecm. I do not have the 5v coming out of the bcm at this point.

 

The check engine light is not on.