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Problems/Service/RepairsIf you have a problem with your HHR, want a tip on repairing or performing a particular service to you HHR here is the place to post!
#62 under hood and #16 BCM have similar labels but do different things.
But one wonders if the clutch pedal start switch was replaced, might the clutch pedal start fuse be the problem? A loose connection shorting, connected backwards etc.
They just have the lines in different places. That blurred writing on the BCM 1 & 2.
2008 and later seems to have no run/crank relay, no clutch start switch, the wire colors are different... I'm just thinking you may look at it and have an aha moment.
I guess it does have the run/crank relay, it's just not on the diagram
Wow! I had too many things going on yesterday to get back to the car. I was surprised to see this post and that it had blown up! Hehe...
So now I'll try to go through all the suggestions and post whatbmy findings were.
There was some sort of aftermarket module (Xpress dball) that was installed, which I assumed was part of a remote starter. I removed it from the car. All but one of the wires just tapped into different areas under the steering wheel. One wire went to the BCM and tapped in there. Then they had cut a red/white wire going to the PK3 module. I have soldered and heat shrinked this back together. I don't see any other aftermarket Items under the dash or hood.
Applying 12v to the purple trigger wire directly gets the motor to turn over. However turning the key to start won't crank the motor, and turning the key to run still doesn't enable the fuel pump to prime/run so it won't run the engine.
With the key in Acc position, I get radio etc.
With my Fluke multimeter I manually pulled and tested every fuse and relay in the fuse box and BCM. Every single one tested good.
I swapped in a 2 month old battery from my Yukon and that didn't make any difference.
Nobody has ever tried jump starting the car.
I checked the status of the recall on the Chevrolet website. I found this "Currently, there are no recalls or programs associated with your 2007 Chevrolet HHR VIN: 3GNDA13D27S504532"
I have tried unplugging and jumping the clutch switch just to make sure that wasn't the problem. Also multimeter shows the switch is good.
And lastly per request, I ran the code checks for all areas of the vehicle. I have a Creader CRP123 scan tool with the latest firmware.
If I go under Body, I see Supplemental Inflatable Restraint. Scanning here got the following codes.
B0081 - Incorrect RF SIS installed
DTC Status : Invalid data
B1370 - Control module ignition On and Start circuit.
DTC Status: Low Voltage/Open
I cleared these out, but as soon as I try to start the car again they came right back.
Next under Chassis I see Electronic Brake Control Module. Trying to scan gets a communication error. I'm assuming that's because this car does not have ABS.
Finally under Powertrain I see Engine Control Module. I'm getting no codes when I scan here.
Thank you so much for all the assistance so far! I'm all ears for any other ideas!
Most of our suggestions seem to be focused on the no crank issue, and don't address the no fuel pump issue. They may be separate issues, but for now let's try to think of a commonality. The only one I can think of is the ignition switch. Anyone?
But also, what about the wires that were tapped into? How was this done? If done with Scotch locks, you should test those wires, maybe they need repair also.
Reading the questions/answers and reviews on Amazon, it's hard to know what this is for. Looks like people install them for remote start and/or alarm systems. You may want to look around to see if there is anything else installed aftermarket.
Just to be clear, these issues were present before this device was removed?
We just went through a similar problem where a security system was removed. Some wires had been tapped and when the tap was removed left a broken conductor inside an insulator.
B0081 means the passenger presence system has been messed with, there should be a hex number associated with the DTC;3a,30,71
B1370 means there is a short in the ignition1 circuit; it might also apply to the SDM
which also would have hex numbers; 01,06. either one is a short 01 to batt+; 06 to ground.
My latest guess is to look under the console behind the gear shift around the SDM for wires that have been diddled.
GoOgle "xpress dball" you will find a lot about it including installation manuals to figure out what wires. It also includes an immobilizer.
Why an after market remote start was installed is a question, it should be factory installed. Look for AP3 on the glovebox door, or wires leading to the hood latch.
Most of our suggestions seem to be focused on the no crank issue, and don't address the no fuel pump issue. They may be separate issues, but for now let's try to think of a commonality. The only one I can think of is the ignition switch. Anyone?
But also, what about the wires that were tapped into? How was this done? If done with Scotch locks, you should test those wires, maybe they need repair also.
Reading the questions/answers and reviews on Amazon, it's hard to know what this is for. Looks like people install them for remote start and/or alarm systems. You may want to look around to see if there is anything else installed aftermarket.
Just to be clear, these issues were present before this device was removed?
Yes. The problem started before I removed the dball module. I only took it out to make sure that it wasn't the cause. I too looked at Amazon to figure out what it was and I only came up with a power lock controller. Which is weird because the car has stock keyless entry that still works with that unit removed. I've looked through the rest of the car and cannot find any other aftermarket add-ons. But I will tear it apart around the shifter to double check.
As for the ignition switch and wires, I have tried 2 different switches that I got from clean cars at the junk yard. I know it is still possible that all 3 of the ones I have are bad. Is there a way to test them with a multimeter?
The wires that were used had part of their insulation removed and the wires were connected to them just by being wrapped around them and electrical taped. So with the exception of the insulation missing, the wires are intact. Like I said before, only a single PK3 wire had been cut and I've fixed it.
I feel that part of the system is just not getting power. I've checked every connection at the BCM and in the fuse box. I'm attaching photos of each panel and the keys for each as well.
I've found several fuses that are not getting power no matter if the key is on acc, run, or off. These are as follows:
Fuse Box: 33, 41, 43, 45, 46, 47, 62, 63, 65, 66, & 67.
BCM: 13, 15, 16, & 19
In the fuse box, I found that fuse 31 is the only one that goes to ground. In the BCM, fuse 28 goes to ground but only when the ignition is on acc or run.
Additionally, I cannot get any of the following to work:
Rear defog
Front wipers
Horn
Headlights
Blinkers/Hazards
Backup lights
Power Mirrors
Everything worked before it went to heck, and everything else still seems to work as expected. Does the BCM control anything that would stop power from being applied?
04-21-2018, 04:12 PM
