Hey guys.

I am helping my friend's son who is down on his luck with back surgery and not able to work. He has a 2011 HHR. I have worked at shop as a mechanic for a few years, im no pro but i know basics.

A little back story on the car.

The car went in to get an engine since it was knocking etc. Shop put a motor in and it never ran right. He had to put an alternator in since it wasnt charging and the battery was draining. The shop that installed the motor left many grounds unhooked. Car sat for about a year or two. He got a new battery last month and it keeps draining it. Now is when i come along... I found zero connection from the valve cover to the body, so the motor wasnt grounded at all. I found 3 loose grounds on the front of the motor and transmission. I cleaned them and attached them properly.

It will start and run well with a jump box if its fully charged, first try once we wait for the security light to go off. After that we have not been able to start it unless i jump 12v between the live 12v post on the starter and the little signal wire then it cranks nicely! Should i be looking at starter relays/grounds?

He has the Chiltons (or Haynes) manual but i dont have it with me. Anyone have the starter wiring schematic?


Thank you!

 

No 2012 HHR. They were made 2006-2011.
Post the year, engine size and transmission (auto or 5 speed) so we can give you the correct wiring schematic.

 

to the forums!

Yes, try swapping known good relays for the relays associated with the starter. There's run/crank and I think there's another. There are a few of each relay in the fuse block. There should be a fuse and relay map inside the lid of the fuse block, and another in the owner manual(digital version available from the link in my signature).

 

My money is on the "fuse box bolts". They have to be removed to change ab engine and never get retightened ENOUGH. Loosen all 4 then retighten them until you hear a loud CLICK, then turn a bit more. You will fear that they will strip.
I was wondering when it would come up this week.

I hope you mean applying 12 volts to the solenoid. The large red wire on the side of the fuse box comes directly from the battery and goes directly to the starter.
The other post on the fuse box (closest to firewall) should have one wire on it, it goes to the power steering motor.

 

Load test the battery it has to be 12.4 volts or higher static, and X2 about the fuse box bolts

 

You mentioned security light. What's going on with that?

 

We keep unhooking the battery and when we do we have to wait 5-10 minutes with the key on for the security light to go away, seemed pretty normal.


Thank you guys for your help, im going to be looking at it in the next few days here!

I believe it is a 2011 2.2 Automatic

 

Thanks for confirming the year, I’ve edited that in your first post