In the case of a camber bolt the strut is modified for the it.
Stock strut bolts , can’t be adjusted but I’ve seen a couple of top bolts ground down to a smaller diameter to allow for a modest camber adjust.
I’ve also seen shims under the two front lca bolts , I’m guessing to adjust camber or maybe caster.
In all cases , I’ve simply installed correct OEM strut bolts , torqued to specs, adjusted for 1/8 inch total toe in and had no issues.
There are always problems like this when the car was taken in for an alignment, then the new part were installed afterwards, mostly as I said the toe was out.

 

Mr Blue that's why the MOOG camber bolts have the step in them. If the strut hole at the top was elongated, the spindle could be moved in or out for camber.
Yes shims could be added to the front pivot of the LCA but for what? That only moves the ball joint out, and then toe needs to be adjusted. I don't see a camber change in that. If anything it would move the spindle C/L back for more negative caster.

 

The bolt kits do not need to modify the strut. The bolts have an offset center and special washers.
Enlarging the holes in the struts is the "other way" to adjust camber. You use the Original bolt. This is the "official GM" way.

Changing the camber also changes the toe. If you adjust one you have to adjust the other and the recheck each.

I don't know how to adjust the caster short of a body pull; it is set at the angle of the strut tower.

 

What I’m trying to explain is, I don’t use these bolts, I don’t use these shims, I put things back to factory specs.
Period.
After 50 years wrenching on cars, I get what these do to the front suspension geometry.
I’ve learned that if there is any of these on an HHR or Colbalt front end, it’s because the front end rack guy was to lazy to do the job correctly in the first place.

 

Correct!