Caliper piston dirt seal
 

I have a question about replacing the seal on front caliper . I have a 2011
HHR LT 2.2 L with 46,000 miles and i just did a complete brake job with rotors

and pads and one of dirt seals in in poor condition . I just ordered a seal kit
for both front calipers . The calipers are in fairly good condition and no leaks
around pistons . I searched this site and else where and couldn't find my answer.

What i want to know if the seal can be replaced without removing the piston.
I don't want to have to bleed the system if i don't have to . The job doesn't
look all that tough but i want to be sure. I'm on this site reading all
the time and there are many knowledgeable members here . Thanks in advance for the help .

Well Dave, it's a pain in the butt, and usually the piston has to come out. A big determining factor in when, or even if, it's worth the time and effort depends on whether brake fluid is leaking past the seal and how badly it is torn or cracked.

Here's a link to an Eric The Car Guy video on rebuilding a caliper....


In Eric's case, he's dealing with an older vehicle, but the principles are the same. And as you'll see, and as I can tell you from rebuilding hundreds of calipers when I worked as a flat rate tech at a Firestone Store in the 80's, it's a bear of a job.

And to answer the rest of your question, you can't do this with the calipers on the HHR, they'll have to come off. And even if you use the "Vice Grips" trick, where you pinch the brake line with Vice Grip pliers(jaws covered with pieces of old fuel line, etc), you're going to end up bleeding the brakes.

Honestly, when you work out the Frustration + Time Involved equation, remanufactured calipers are the way to go.

(And a big thanks to Eric Cook for the use of his videos here over the years):twothumbs:

X2, reman calipers are the way to go, however I have replaced just one dust boot one my driver's side caliper a little wrestling and needing three hands but I got it done and didn't have to bleed the brakes.

Three Hands, The Luck of The Irish, and Mr. Goodwrench looking over your shoulder mate.;)

I'd never even try a caliper dust boot still on the car...err...Trucklet myself, but that's because I used to do it for a living. Ten minutes on the workbench vs. forty five minutes on the car, Flat Rate techs need to "make hay while the sun shines".

I did it with the caliper on one bolt tilted forward to hold it but stretching the boot was a kick!!

Thanks for the quick responses and i think I'll try and tackle the boot without
opening the system . I now remember doing the same job on a 1974 Buick
Regal .

But not the same as the ever warping rotors as these are plagued with the HHR's . I vision the boots pulsing in and out like a speaker cone on steroids .

Probably the cause of boot failure .

If you're suffering from "Brake Judder", that's a classic sign that the self-adjusters on your rear drums aren't functioning properly. When this happens, the rear brakes stop contributing their normal 20-30% of the braking effort when you stop, hence overloading the front brakes and leading to excessive wear and rotor warpage.

Give this thread on rear brake adjustment a read, and get into the habit of doing it at every oil change or 5,000 miles.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brak...ocedure-36754/

And check your lower control arm bushings!

Well yesterday i replaced the boot on the caliper . On the car without opening
the system . Took me 2 hours total time . Hardest thing was getting the
lock ring properly seated in the boot . No leaks and the old boot was pretty
well torn . Don't think I'll be doing another though . Just wanted to see
if i could do one . But at 70 I think next time I'll replace the whole caliper

Glad to hear you got it fixed up!:thumb:

Now don't forget to adjust those rear brakes on a regular basis to keep your HHR from doing the Brake Judder Two-Step, and you'll get more miles out of the front brakes too.