Sometimes when I drive over a bump or hit a pothole, my engine shuts off. I have heard this blamed on a loose ignition switch, but the key feels solid and does not wiggle. And when the engine is running, even if I shake the key, the engine keeps running.

The other day, I noticed when I tilt the steering wheel and bang it all the way down, the engine shuts off. Could this still be the ignition switch, or do you think there could be a loose wire in the steering column?

 

Do you have lots of keys on the keychain? That could cause it to shut off by pulling the ignition switch to the acc setting.

 

Not too much. And it only shuts off sometimes from bumps. I checked again and the key feels very tight in the ignition, and there does not feel like any play at all. And now, when I banged the tilt wheel down, it did not shut off the engine.

I have a feeling it is not the ignition switch-just a loose wire connection in the steering column.

 

Lee,
I actually had the ignition cylinder replaced on my 06 because it was loose. I could pull straight down on my keychain and the car would shut off quite easily. After changing the cylinder, it took a good bit more effort to shut the car off that way. Since with an 06 you are out of warranty, removing anything unnecessary from the keychain might just help the situation (if it does turn off by pulling down on the keychain).

 

Lee3333,

I'm sorry you are having this problem. Have you taken your hhr to a local GM dealership? They could diagnose this issue for you and fix this problem. If you need help locating a dealership or have any further questions feel free to ask, thank you!

Evan, Chevrolet Customer Service

 

A couple of times I let the tilt slam down without holding the wheel. It shut off. Same effect I think. I've seen no evidence of anything wrong with the ignition switch. Its never shut off under any other conditions.

 

I have a good relationship with my local dealer, and will go there to ask there advise.

But even with my friends there, I am still having the problem with the traction control going off and throwing a code, which they refused to work with (even when the car was under warranty) blaming it on my CGS intake. And now we are learning that HHR's with the stock intake are developing the same problem. The thing is dealers are usually reluctant to work on cars that have been modified and mine has been.

HHR's, especially the first year (06) like mine are known for electrical problems. I think my T/C is bad wiring at a wheel sensor. My car shutting down another example. I have already replaced my heater control panel once, and at night the illumination lights are beginning to flicker again (and not when I hit bumps, but just at irregular intervals). And forget about the body grounds. I learned years ago that the spot we are instructed to use when jumping the car does not work. The drivers side shock tower in the engine compartment has a sticker saying it is a good ground. I used it for my airhorns, and they did not work. I ran a ground strap to it, and now it does. Then I checked the other side, assuming the body is all connected, and it was not a good ground either so I ran a second ground strap to it. I guess there are too many rubber bushings used to isolate the car body.

And while we are on the electrical subject, you can not use the fuse box to get power for add-on's. The circuits are designed for the factory load. Anything additional could throw a code in the computer or blow the fuse. I hooked something up that was very low amp draw, and it still overloaded the circuit.