dantesab

well put them on this saturday and no more noise in front end.It sounds like a new car. Had to use tourch to cut links off because they were froze on shaft. I plan to take the old links to dealer and show them and also write a nice letter to GM about the dealer network they have.Why buy a extended warrenty when dealer will not replace anything.Now I have to try to get them to replace struts in front end both are leaking.

delta88

Yeh both HHR company cars I had/have had clunks, Was hit in the first hhr so never fixed it.
The current 2007 w/ 111921m miles as of today had it fixed while still under warranty.
4 sets of struts= nope
2 sets end links= nope
2 steering columns= kinda
1 set sway bar mid point bushings= BINGO

We have 4 HHRs, well 3 now and they all suffer from the same issues. all 2007 in year.
Can't wait for the replacements. Terrain/equinox/traverse.. it wont be an HHR

BTW my blacked out black 2007 LS will be up for sale from work soon

Stan M

Back in February (at 26,000 miles) the dealer claimed to have "lubricated and re-secured" the links. How you lube something without zerk fittings is something they are going to explain to me when I take them the links I just replaced today. The Moog replacements do have fittings on them.

This is inexcusably bad engineering. This kind of linkage should last closer to 100K miles, even without grease fittings. These pre-lubed ones undoubtedly come from the OEM ready to install, and I would suspect that how long they last in use depends how long they sat on the shelf at the assembly plant.

dantesab

I heard the supplier went bankrupt so they have a lot of old links to use before getting to new ones this is bad customer service as far as I am concerned. They need to repalce them with new ones now also the stab bar center links or bushings are shot also and the struts leak on almost all the hhr,s. They say a little leakage from struts is allowed I say BS struts should NEVER leak oil.

urbexHHR

I don't know why you can't grease them... That's just dumb. I mean sure it's more work to do, but at least it will help it last longer!

Thanks for the info! If the clunking comes back in mine I'll know what to try and fix now that I'm out of warranty.

Smoke Wagon

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

Rockauto has them for $23/ea

Stryker

So I called the dealer today to see what the OEM end links would cost and he said he wasn't sure of the one I needed. I asked him what he meant and he said there were two different lengths. One was 280mm and another was 330mm.

Didn't make sense, since the moogs and others I have seen are just one length. I just happened to browse RockAuto tonight and sure enough they list two as well.

RAYBESTOS Part # 5451624 More Information About this Part Professional Grade; Sway Bar Repair Kit (Rebate/Promotion Available! See Promotions & Rebates Page for Details.) Sale Item
Front Suspension; 281mm Length

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$30.99
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RAYBESTOS Part # 5451424 More Information About this Part Professional Grade; Sway Bar Repair Kit; Sway Bar Link Kit; Contents: (1) Link - Studs on Each End; (2) Nuts - Locking M12 x 1.75; Instruction Sheet - Generic (Rebate/Promotion Available! See Promotions & Rebates Page for Details.) Sale Item

Front Suspension; 333mm Length

When I took my end links off as discussed in the other thread, I grabbed the end of my sway bar and shook it a little and the sound was still there(which implies my bushings, I do have replacements I just haven't put those on yet), but I wonder if the length of the end link itself matters.

I have the 2LT which is suppose to be a different suspension than the LS/1LT. Anyone know what the deal is with the two lengths?

MGMsHHR

I just replaced the two on my HHR with NAPA one yesterday and no more clunking.........I have been looking for that noise for a while !!! Took about 40 minutes to do both sides....oh yah the napa ones have a 6mm hex socket in the end of the bolt so you can hold the bolt and turn the nut with a open end wrench.

sleeper

Stryker-

Interesting about the different lengths.. Can you measure your oem ones ?

diskullman

I may think about replacing mine with industrial rod ends, commonly called "Heim" joints in the automotive industry.

Such as: http://www.fkrodends.com/STUDDEDSPEC42.html