Got ready to head to work again this morning when the "Red Toad" wouldn't start again. It seems whenever I ride the Harley or drive the Silverado, and leave the HHR Panel in the garage, I go out the next day and it is dead. About a month ago I pulled the battery out and took it over to Advance to have it tested and they said other than needing a charge, it was fine. A couple months ago I had to be out of town for a week and it was so flat, the milage LCD wouldn't light up. It seems I have to take the mutt out for a walk to leave a log around mid-night every night and I check it to make sure a light hasn't stuck on, so thats not it. At least when I made the 15 minute drive to the dealer, it was dead again when they went to move it.

The 2nd item I brought up to them was the key fob. They replaced one of them a few months ago when it had contacts that didn't open the rear doors. They said one of the contacts had became un-soldered. Same problem with the 2nd remote. Service person (woman) sounded skeptical.

The 3rd item I tried to explain to them. It has occured about a half dozen times since it has happened. Go to leave the Handy-Mart or work, insert the key and it won't turn. Usually takes 10 minutes of playing with shifter, steering wheel, and key switch, and finally it will go. This happened when it was a couple weeks out of the dealer and since they couldn't duplicate the problem, too bad, too sad. I never went back there again. They seem a little skeptical about that also. I was thinking I seen a service bullitin mentioned or something it looks like I will need to find. They want me to email them a link to it, since the are a large dealer and can't find any reference to it. Dropped it off and told them to call me when it is fixed. Bear

 

Sounds like you've got a slow drain (power-wise) somewhere.

 

ya think?

 

When you do drive it, how far do you go? It takes considerable mileage to recharge fully, stop and go/short trips won't do it.

 

How about things plugged into the "cigarette lighter"/power outlets, they are always hot. You said you took the battery out to have it tested, and it just needed a charge, why not have the charging system checked, Advance will do that too.

The fob is delicate, if you drop it or handle it roughly that can break the internal solder joints.

Re the key thing. The symptoms described sound a lot like the anti-theft system getting activated. Do you understand how that works? I don't mean to imply duncehood, but many people don't.

Or, is the toad a female? Jealousy issues could apply.

 

I make sure there is nothing plugged into the lighter accessory. Haven't had the GPS plugged in for months, to make sure that wasn't it. The battery problem only started a three or four months back. Since I pretty much drive it daily, it wasn't noticable.
I can stand beside the Panel, depress the "older" fob repeatedly, the doors won't open. Depress the newer one and they open right away on 1st "click". I don't mind driving the Silverado for a few days since it looks like rain all week. Just rather get the milage the HHR gets. The fobs on the Silverado still have the original batteries. This winter I replaced the cases and touch pads on both with sets I got off ebay. The letters were wore off. HHR will be home soon, Bear

 

I don't know, but I wonder if there is some sort of programming preventing a second/new fob from working. One of those super security idea things? Or, when it was replaced did the tech know that a panel is different? I have had techs swear to God in my face that the RCDLR is in the rear right panel, not above the mirror.

But still, maybe jealousy?

 

I think there is a secondary programming deal with the panel FOB specifically for the back doors...... If everything else is working but not the back door poppers then they forgot to do the additional programming.

 

Sounds like a parasitic drain to me also. You can check for parasitic loads using an ammeter. Make sure all electrical loads are off in the car, doors closed, and the key is out of the ignition switch . Disconnect one of the battery cables from the battery, placing an ammeter in series between the battery post and cable clamp. The current draw reading should be less than 35 milliamps. A reading higher than this (or manufacturer specifications) would indicate excessive battery drain. Something is "on", allowing current to flow running down the battery. Vehicles today typically will draw less than .020 amps (20 milliamps) of current to maintain electronic memories and circuits.


Keep in mind that if the battery is disconnected, parasitic drains may temporarily increase. Circuits in the engine and body computers (bcm) are activated and will run until internal timers runout. This reactivation period could be anywhere from a few seconds to almost 30 minutes. Whenever possible avoid disconnecting the battery while performing this test. It is possible to place one lead of the ammeter on the battery post and the other on the battery clamp, while at the same time lifting the battery clamp off the battery post. On side terminal batteries, connect the voltmeter with alligator clips and let sit until the timers run out.

Good luck in your bug hunt.

 

As a follow up. They determined the battery was bad. Guess Advance testing wasn't so good. Parked it for a couple days and rode the Harley to work and it started today without a problem, so hopefully that took care of it. They replaced the 2nd remote. Same issue as the 1st: solderd joint became "unsoldered". Since they couldn't duplicate the "locked-up" ignition switch issue, no progress but at least it is recorded as an issue if it continues to plague me.