Door unlock and lock while driving, shifter in the transsmisiongoes crazy
Because some genius crossed some wires. Like that wire to the brake lamp. And whatever is causing fuses to get hot. And the incorrectly wired reverse lamp. And the rewiring needed to make the rear lights legal in Europe, that evidently was done by a monkey.
US models must have all of the lights in the rear modified for Europe, not just the reverse light.
I am making a guess that the reverse light was intended to be triggered by the interlock relay in the shifter and somehow the brake light was used to power the reverse light and somebody with no knowledge of electricity did the wiring. Unfortunately, any wiring diagrams we have would be wrong for a Europe conversion.
In the US the brake, tail and turn lights are in the same bulb, on the top housing. Reverse lights are in the lower housings. All of the lights are controlled by the computer, not by switches like old time.
US models must have all of the lights in the rear modified for Europe, not just the reverse light.
I am making a guess that the reverse light was intended to be triggered by the interlock relay in the shifter and somehow the brake light was used to power the reverse light and somebody with no knowledge of electricity did the wiring. Unfortunately, any wiring diagrams we have would be wrong for a Europe conversion.
In the US the brake, tail and turn lights are in the same bulb, on the top housing. Reverse lights are in the lower housings. All of the lights are controlled by the computer, not by switches like old time.
So... Next idea please :)
You describe exactly the scenario I gave. The brake pedal is triggering the door locks by way of the shift interlock that is supposed to turn the reverse light on. No telling what wires may be crossed either by the previous owner or by melting.

im back with unlock/lock probem :(
Its time to start digging :)
Lets get back to the story :)
So after i drove home in plus minus half of the road the problem stoped, drove another 500 kilometers and problem started again, so i had 300 km home iv driven like a rabbit and the ~3000 rpm (uff that was a hard night) After i drove home i went for sleep, in the mornig when i started the car he was still clicking, so ive calle alle the electrical mecanics to solve the problem, when i drove home a miracle happend no clicks no door locks/unlocks nothing, car was like it was before the problem started, i was very happy. Unfortunetly the problem came back, one month ago, now its differentt. Car was starting normaly i had to go 10-15 km, and he started to click, and was clicking until the car was not moving by several hours. So every morning i had a good car but when i came back from work i had a clicking problem. All mecanics gave up, they checked all cables that go to the doors (ive checked them again) all the mail cables near the tcm and bcm, i can communicate with bcm with no problem. There are no codes in the fault codes. What more was done (the brake pedal) - ive detached the extra lights and the microswitches so the car is like on US factory lights.
From sunday the problem is wors: Now when i start the car and go to D it clics (there is no extra time to start clicking) D=clicks, when he clicks i see that the car i loosin power, so when im on road i can feel that power steering goes harder, yesterday the gaugess went off (speedometer) and the ware no information about av speed, oil life etc, just a sign power steering.
So i had an idea to plug out the TCM when the car is on N runing with the handbrake, and puff no clics !!! But! the Zit zit sound is still on, and gettin noisyer when click continue i managed to detect where is coming from ( its from a round thind that is uderd the tcm/ecm handle and the computer themself, if you look from face of the car being under the car the sound cames from driver wheel side) whats more intersting probem stops from time to time , but cames back imidietly when i hit the brake pedal and car is stoping fast, and the front hood is going up and down , like when you stop suddently (a bad brake pump, bad power steering?).
What all the mecanics said - shortcut but the could not locate the place, one of them suggested the TCM is bad (i can agree, but why sometimes car can drive 15 km with no click, and why he was driving for two months normaly?) Is there a way to check if the tcm is broken like with a multimeter ?
One more thing when i go from D to R, the T/C light coomes on the board but when its on proper position N or R its not appearing.
If its the TCM i know i have to progam it, but.. there are no TCMs in place i live with exact same part numbers (mine is with four letters after the number part) so can i order a programed tcm someware on ebay ? If yes do You have a recomended seller that sells programed TCm and ships to europe ?
One more thing i tried to see if he click iss to put him in cruise mode, but it still clics

So now i need some advices/ideas, i want my car as it was on good old times

Last edited by M3ndoR; Oct 17, 2023 at 04:31 AM.
Everything sounds like a loose/burnt wire. Vibration while driving causes it to be intermittent; the "zit-zit" could be arcing.
Yes, you can get a programmed TCM, They are used, so vendor doesn't make much difference, most have no question returns. I would not worry about "exact" part numbers; same year and engine is more to the point.
Yes, you can get a programmed TCM, They are used, so vendor doesn't make much difference, most have no question returns. I would not worry about "exact" part numbers; same year and engine is more to the point.
Everything sounds like a loose/burnt wire. Vibration while driving causes it to be intermittent; the "zit-zit" could be arcing.
Yes, you can get a programmed TCM, They are used, so vendor doesn't make much difference, most have no question returns. I would not worry about "exact" part numbers; same year and engine is more to the point.
Yes, you can get a programmed TCM, They are used, so vendor doesn't make much difference, most have no question returns. I would not worry about "exact" part numbers; same year and engine is more to the point.
I would especially look at any wiring that was done for import or not factory. Could be shift solenoid or switch.
I really don't think any computer is the problem, unless a short has fried it; any 12v positive contact with the TCM case can be fatal.
I really don't think any computer is the problem, unless a short has fried it; any 12v positive contact with the TCM case can be fatal.

I dont think that is the problem with lights etc.
I noticed that when im on a parking lot and go to N and pull the hand break (i dont press the brake pedal) i hear clicking coming out of back of interior fuse box, constant, faster slower sometime it stops clicking. The clicking sound is the same when you lock the doors by the door swtich, and press is more than 5-6 times, the door will lock and all You will hear is the clickin form the back of interior fuse box, Mine fuse box is clicking all the ttime like this (after the engine gets the proper temperature)
I think that a burnt lose wire is more possible, like a microswitch problem, like short circuit.
Can someone send me the auctions that all available with a shifter and the solenoid, in gmpartsonline it says "out of stock"
Any help would be appreciated


