I had this happen to me today, and had to call roadside assistance to get in. The driver's door lock would not come up - at all. He got in by pulling the passenger one up. I have only been using the key for months, because my fob is broken. I am not happy, and plan to tear the door apart this afternoon and look for possible solutions that don't result in me paying a couple hundred for new key fobs and programming. The key should work anyway, right?

Let me know what you find.

I have no fob (bought used did not have one). What I do is to lock the door electronically with the power lock button by pressing it twice to lock it before I close the door and try to pull the manual button up. if it pulls up the key works; if it does not the key does not.

When it does not I use the electronic lock on the door and unlock and relock it. It usually works the first time. If it does not I repeat until it does..... it's a pain in the button, but it beats leaving the doors unlocked.

I found nothing specific. I made sure everything worked, and then put it back together, I know - this is what the wife calls "just f-ing with it", but I honestly found nothing. I was motivated, but found nothing. I am not convinced I improved this at all, but we will see, It works for now.

If the rod doesn't need adjusting, then the only thing that would make the rod not move up and down is the door lock assembly itself. Number 2 in the pic.

Attachment 13082

IIRC, some members found the lock 'knob' to be too tight going thru the door panel.. Causing a binding situation...

Removal of knob (it's coarse threaded) & filing the opening thru door panel fixed that situation.. fwiw..

Well, it happened again Friday, and I had to call for help again - sitting in my driveway, with keys in hand.

I bit the bullet and bought new remotes and paid for programming. My theory is that somehow the security system is involved in this (key won't work in door) scenario. So. I'm poorer, but I think this will fix it.

I took it to a Buick/GMC/Cadillac dealer, and the service guy really liked it. He didn't know the SS even existed... :twothumbs: for the sleeper!

this has happened to me twice
 

I too have the 2008. I do not have a key fob as I bought this car used. both times the key does not work when trying to unlock it. the first time my friend sprayed graphite into the key hole hoping this would somehow lubricated it did. last night it did it again but we didn't have time to mess with it. so we have spent the better part of the day today trying to figure this thing out. it makes it even more difficult when Chevy only put one key holehole on the whole vehicle. taking the car to a dealership is not an option As I am currently unemployed. any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Lube the lock again. Try wd40 first, to flush it out, then hit it with the graphite.

You really should have insisted on getting the key fobs when you got the car. Most look at the key lock as being an emergency thing only for when the fobs fail to work.

You can purchase replacement remotes at many locksmiths and they can program them. I paid $45 for a key, remote and programming for both at a local shop that we frequently use. Sometimes all a non functioning remote needs is a new battery, a new cover or a little soldering job on the battery connector. I've even seen the plastic covers in hardware stores. The buttons in the cover complete the circuit on the board and they wear out. The new covers include new buttons. I purchased 2 online for my truck for $9 each.

I forgot to mention it in this thread:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...ts-pics-45839/

but the small motor inside the door latch assembly if it is only partially moved, i.e. stuck, between the open and closed positions it will cause the binding problem with the key and the lock plunger.

That is why it may be likely in several of the posts in this thread doors could not be unlocked.