Dtc p1682 2011 HHR LS
 

I have a no crank no start, no click issue, and don't know how to proceed. I have replaced the ignition switch in this bottom and steering column and replace the run crank relay in the under hood fuse box, the ECM fuse in the under hood fuse box does not have both defeating supplied to it with the ignition key on or off, and the ECM fuse in the BCM has no voltage. From what I understand about this trouble code is that there's two voltage supplies to the ignition One is constant power and that's to save your information such as your clock settings in your seat settings etc, and the other is supplied when you turn the ignition switch to the on position. These voltages are supposed to match, and if they don't it'll throw the code. Evidently it's in circuit too which I believe is fed through the run crank relay and a fuse, but the ECM won't tell anything to do anything because it doesn't have power being supplied to it. I took the fuse box apart nothing looked like it was being shorting or arcing so I brushed it out and put dielectric grease on all the terminals and reassembled and everything I've done so far has been to no avail. Still no crank no start no click when I turn the key all the dash lights go out....
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...a9b3682a73.jpg
I LOVE my HHR, I must get her back on the road!
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...c8138c3c8e.jpg
I recently have gotten the windows tinted, installed in channel window vents, weathertech floor liners, all new door speakers and a 4 channel amp, along with a Fosgate p500 12 inch loaded enclosure, and a JVC double din touchscreen stereo. No check engine lights and it was working fine until I removed the battery to detail clean the cargo area. I reinstalled the battery and nothing. No crank, no start, no click.
I don't know what to do. I've got to get back to work. I've got to get this figured out ASAP. I have an Innova 3100RS scanner, but it doesn't diagnose and pinpoint the source of the DTC being thrown. I haven't worked in a week so it's already cost me that I come plus 100 bucks in par so that didn't change anything. I don't have the money to keep throwing away, or to tow to a dealer to use a full range scanner, to pinpoint the issue. I've read that replacing the under the hood fuse box or replacing the ECM could fix it. How can I eliminate the devices that are not the culprit and diagnose what is? Confused...
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...3fa4751fe6.jpg
Only code it's showing p1682

Removed the battery and reinstalled. That’s when the problem started.
Then it’s most likely a problem around the battery.
You didn’t short out the cables did you ?
Overtighten or strip a battery terminal ?
My guess would be the battery has a bad connection related to your work.
Forget to connect something like the voltage sensor ( that round thingy) that goes around the battery cable ?
Recheck your battery area.

Check the fuse near the battery and the battery posts they should be tight enough to not spin and are easy to break. Be sure to really tighten the 4 bolts in the under hood fuse box gorilla tight.

Before you do anything else take it to a dealer and complain. There recalls and/or extended warranties on the ignition switches. Every year HHR was affected. Doesn’t matter if a recall was already done*, I would try anyway. Any GM dealer. Need not be Chevy.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/gm-r...-recall-60411/

Be easy to do that if it would only start.

The ignition switch recall was for intermittently turning off while driving, not for no start.

Another 1 and done ?
To his credit, he did come back. Guess he didn’t like the suggestions ?

If they do come back; A permanent code means that the problem has been resolved and the failure is in memory for future4 diagnostic purposes. It does not cause a CEL.

Update update fixed! Hear ye hear ye! Come one come all electrical problem got f
 

******UPDATE FIXED*****
Hello brothers, sorry I'm just now getting back to you, I had four vertebrae in my cervical spine fused on the 24th so I haven't been feeling too hot but good news is I got my car back and it's running I'd had it figured out to three things The ECM the BCM of the fuse box I was leaning to the fuse box because the OBD2 reader was talking to the ECM and the ECM was talking to the BCM that was obvious they were communicating things that were in my under hood fuse box that should be hot all the time whether the keys in the ignition or not like the headlights the horn your tail lights should always be hot and they didn't have any voltage of the fuses So I thought the fuse box right then. But since I didn't have the fancy bi-directional OBD2 scanners and programmers I was not able to pinpoint it perfectly and make sure I was right and I didn't want all kinds of money at it I took you to a dealer, and if five weeks later they tell me they replace the fuse box! I'm not doing cartwheels enlightening candles and yelling I told you so I promise that I told you so I might not know car wine but I know how electricity froze and makes these things operate but thank you all for all your suggestions and your prompt answers I'm a walk I'm getting around a little bit like Frankenstein right now you know not so much drunk like but more like s step I did not see. But I will talk to you all soon Hope all is well have a wonderful week my brothers one love thank you all.

Sorry bro I left your comment earlier I just had told you you have been bedridden but you'll see what I'm talking about I'm not one and
done I'm here for the long haul later bro..