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Engine cooling system drain, flush, and refill

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Old Jul 31, 2016 | 07:24 PM
  #41  
RJ_RS_SS_350's Avatar
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I just took this pic. This is the SS, you may have something in the way. I think the drain bolt is the one with the dab of green paint. Someone tell me if I'm wrong please.


It's on the passenger side, between the engine block and the firewall, above the axle shaft.

Last edited by RJ_RS_SS_350; Mar 11, 2017 at 11:47 PM.
Old Jul 31, 2016 | 07:59 PM
  #42  
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That is it. the paint is QC check mark.
Old Jul 31, 2016 | 08:11 PM
  #43  
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Out of curiosity, how much of the cooling system could you drain by just using that as the drain point ?

Reason for my asking is, since the SS radiator petcocck(avoiding censors )
is almost impossible to get to, would using the waterpump drain be a good substitute ?
Old Jul 31, 2016 | 08:23 PM
  #44  
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I've drained just the radiator petkawk so far(discovered a trick). I can only get about half a gallon out. I've done this 10 times(and burped each time) and the coolant still has a slight pink tint. I'm going to get 2 gallons of straight Dex tommorow(SS capacity 9.2). I'll drain tomorrow from both points, hoping to get more than a gallon out. If I can't, I'll have some math to do!!

I'm writing an SS how-to, I don't know if there's any special sealant to put on that drain bolt for reassembly. And someone(I think it was sidecardog) said tighten it to 16 INCH-pounds. I just can't believe that's true, I don't think that's even hand-tight!!
Old Jul 31, 2016 | 09:21 PM
  #45  
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I went ahead and did what firemangeorge suggested. Almost the entire gallon of Dexcool went in after burping the system for some time. Going to drive the car for several days adding the remaining amount of Dexcool and distilled water.

Thermostat went in just fine. There is a little gap since the diameter is slightly smaller than the original.
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 07:57 AM
  #46  
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Watch for leaks at the housing.
Old Aug 1, 2016 | 08:17 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by RJ_RS_SS_350
I've drained just the radiator petkawk so far(discovered a trick). I can only get about half a gallon out. I've done this 10 times(and burped each time) and the coolant still has a slight pink tint. I'm going to get 2 gallons of straight Dex tommorow(SS capacity 9.2). I'll drain tomorrow from both points, hoping to get more than a gallon out. If I can't, I'll have some math to do!!

I'm writing an SS how-to, I don't know if there's any special sealant to put on that drain bolt for reassembly. And someone(I think it was sidecardog) said tighten it to 16 INCH-pounds. I just can't believe that's true, I don't think that's even hand-tight!!
DO NOT use chemical flush agents. Aluminum! It may not clog up, but it roughs up the surfaces making for bad flow.

Dex-Cool has no silica.

For static drain you must remove the t-stat.

It comes from the factory with some sort of sealant and it is really on tight.

16 lb in / 22 N.m. is correct according to Mitchell. (DAMN MY LYING EYES, IT IS 16 LB. FT.)

For some reason GM thinks they put surge tanks on 2008 models.
Attached Thumbnails Engine cooling system drain, flush, and refill-coolantfill_page_1.png   Engine cooling system drain, flush, and refill-coolantfill_page_2.png  

Last edited by donbrew; Aug 3, 2016 at 10:47 AM.
Old Aug 1, 2016 | 09:28 AM
  #48  
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Slonny that stat is the wrong size! Possibly a customer returned the wrong stat in the expensive package! I've opened the box at the parts counter and found a Stant t-stat in an AC Delco box, it happens!
Old Aug 1, 2016 | 10:47 AM
  #49  
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I am speechless... Everything is in place now and I am so tired of all of this fixing/maintenance that I a need a few weeks to recover. I emailed the person who sent me that thermostat about the issue that I am having.

It looks like I will need to go through another drain/remove thermostat/fill process, but that is for another day. I will just reuse the coolant that is already in the system and top it off with 50/50 mix.

Is there a need to remove water pump drain plug during the process or radiator drain is sufficient?
Old Aug 1, 2016 | 12:55 PM
  #50  
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You do not have to drain the system to remove the t-stat! Just pop the housing lose a couple tablespoons of coolant. 2 bolts.

You are making too much out of the job. It is not magic or rocket science.



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