You know the "quote" in the lower right of each post will quote the post and open a reply form?

If you are using a mobile, just hitting reply in the post will quote it.

 

You know the "quote" in the lower right of each post will quote the post and open a reply form? OK


* GOT ANOTHER SCAN AT advanced auto THIS WEEKEND, IT SHOWED p0300 AND p0354 (which said ignition coil #D --- with primary/sec. circuit malfunction)


REMEMBER THE FIRST SCAN THE DAY BEFORE AT O'RIELLY SHOWED CODES p0300 AND p0304.

* NOW AFTER 1 HR. I WENT TO AUTO ZONE AND GOT ANOTHER SCAN BUT IT SHOWED NO CODES SO GUEST IT CLEARED EVERY THING.


TRIED AGAIN TODAY AT 2:00 WITH FRIENDS SNAP-ON SCANNER BUT SHOWED NOTHING AGAIN.


WILL TEST COIL ASAP AND GO FROM THERE... NOTE: THE RIDE IS RUNNING GOOD AGAIN NOW, NO MISSING OR CUT-OUTS. BEEN AROUND TOWN DRIVING, STOP AND GO, AND FREEWAY. RUNNING GOOD ALL DAY YESTERDAY AND TODAY. . . SO FAR!


IDEALS?????

 

Yes, if you have no codes, that is ideal. And please turn off your caps lock, it's the equivalent of yelling. Hope your car continues to run good!

 

Yes, if you have no codes, that is ideal. And please turn off your caps lock, it's the equivalent of yelling. Hope your car continues to run good!
__________________________________________________ _______________________


I found this on a search for P0354.... most say and those posting here too, that switching the parts is the test to use and a quick check, I agree.


P0354 Engine Ign Coil Ckt
Mostly, this obd2code denotes a malfunction in ignition coil D circuit. To check, check theignition coil wiring connections going to ignition coil D and test for open orcut connections. Do the same thing on the ground wires which could be corrodedor loose. Note: On newer engines, instead of using a spark plug wires, anignition coil spark system is used instead which is mounted direct on top ofthe cylinder. If after checking the wires or ignition coil plug rubber boot areproven to be OK, replace the ignition coil plugs but make sure to use OEM partsonly.




Since the ignition coil plugs of these engines are expensive and if youhave a misfire code, try switching the ignition coil plugs. If it has a misfireat cylinder #3 and after switching it with cylinder #5 and the code move to #5,it is an indication of a failed ignition coil plug itself. However alwaysreplace the ignition coil plugs as a set. Finally, to avoid wasting your time,check also the wiring and circuit of the ignition module which can fail andcause this P0354 code

 

I THINK it was Donbrew that I was reading on this Forum which said regarding getting codes... that once the parts store gives you the code(s) from the scanner that is all you need. Take the codes and look them up by search on google (etc.) and this will give you a FULL list of information to then check into. Doing so I found quotes like, "you can replace all the parts in the coil system and still have the problem because it was the intake leaking." I read a long time ago when electronics were being put on cars, that the problems that were showing up where still the same as always and not many dealing with the electronics. There are more of them today but we have to not over look the basic of engine works like leaks, shorts, broken parts and things not plugged in.


Here are some sites I found for P0354:
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0354
http://repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-p0354




These give: Symptoms, Causes, Solutions and more like testing etc. .

 

Here is my guide to troubleshooting from my sig:

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...-light-52828/?

There is a link in there that has a chart of exactly what a code means, not what the exact fault is.

Usually, the On Board Diagnostic (computer) tells you something is wrong and you should do this or that to find out exactly what. It can only infer what might be happening by putting together symptoms, most of the time it does not have a direct sensor. Like "small vacuum leak" or "large vacuum leak".

There is a difference between "ignition coil" and ignition coil circuit".

 

OK... after checking things out and it running good for about 2 weeks here is what I found. The first thing in removing the connector from the top of the #4 coil, it felt like the plug had not shaped on to the coil connector and was NOT tight... I should have pulled on the male end first BEFORE de-pressing the locking release... I did not and the connectors came apart in a way that seem too easy. Went through the coil, wiring boot and plug all looked good. Put it back together and it ran alright, few days later I tried to see if I could remake the problem... I just un-snapped the lock-tab and moved the plug back but still in connector. As I then moved the plug back slowly I got the slow-sometimes-miss, moving back more a stronger miss, just as it had happen. Note the connector and plug where still together during the test... when I pulled them apart it had a dead cyl. miss BUT I had not had that problem only a light miss sometimes that was growing more and with a stronger dead spot.


Anyways... I'm OK for now and THANKS to all and another happy ending... Happy Trails to all !!!!!

 

I guess that's why the put those lock tabs on the electrical connectors.

 

Yesterday I did a spark check with the #4 Plug by pulling the coil and plug boot off the spark plug and put a plug tester on the end in place of the spark plug. The tester is then grounded and the engine is started so you can see the spark jumping across the center electro to the side of the tester. The spark was strong, in time and good color.


As the engine has not missed or cut out or given any more problems, I am moving on and leaving this as corrected. I thank all who gave input and help... Happy Trails Friends, JC

 

https://www.google.ca/search?q=happy...HgDcot2eUwAAAA