HHRnovice

No. There was no power at the connector.

By visual inspection of the wire do you mean check the entire wire? I believe it runs under the carpet/seats/console so I could do that too. Maybe the previous owner replaced a part of the wire and that's why it's not red/white at the solenoid.

I would be happy to buy a new solenoid however I have removed this one from the car and applied air pressure to the canister side while also applying 12v for at least 10 seconds. The solenoid closed as it should and held with no air passing through it until the current was removed. I would think that means it's working correctly, maybe not. It still leaves the issue of no current in the connector.

donbrew

AND you have checked fuse #64 under hood?

I think the pigtail plugs into a harness end before it goes inside. 3 circuits all plug into the harness. That could be a failure point.

HHRnovice

Yes. I did check fuse #64 and it's good on both sides. The pigtail does plug into a connector on the underside of the car. I probed that too and there is no power there either.

I got a suggestion to run a new wire from the fuse block instead of tracing the old one.

donbrew

Have you verified the ground point you are using for the test lamp? That can be a real forehead slapper.

donbrew

HHRnovice

Yes. I verified that the ground was good and that the bulb was working too. I also tried to check for current with a multimeter. Nothing there either.

HHRnovice

As I suspected, someone spliced the red/white wire with a section that is purple. I pulled the solenoid wires out of the loom and discovered that a short section of both wires had been replaced.

I made sure I had ground on my test light and probed the red/white wire. Still no current. So I cut the wire and took a section of similar gauge wire and put an inline fuse in it. I connected it to the positive side of the battery to supply current to the connector to see if the solenoid would work if it had power. Before I reconnected the connector I tested both sides and both have current. My test light lit on both terminals. As far as I know this indicates a short in the white ground wire. Maybe I'm wrong.

If it is shorted I will have to find the short. Do the seats have to be removed to get at the wires? Thanks.

donbrew

If the ground wire is hot; yes short to voltage. The last you said was no +, now it's both +?

If you mean you spliced + on one side and now both sides are + the short is probably in the connector or at the original splice. Try continuity between the 2 pins.

The valve that was OE on 2006 used a different connector and you had to get an adapter pigtail to make a new valve work. I wonder if somebody got a junkyard valve from a 2006 and modified the wires? The parts stores sell the pigtail adapter, some new valves come with it.

The bundle probably runs under the door sill molding except where it cuts around the driver seat support.

HHRnovice

I was going over this after I posted.

What I did after I spliced the new wire from the battery to the red/white wire was to ground my test light and probe the spot where it was spliced. I got power as I should have. Then I probed both sides of the connector and got + on both sides. So I was grounding both sides.

The engine and ignition were off. So why would the white ground wire show + when grounded with the test light?

Could the voltage go through the ECM to the white ground wire with the ignition off?

donbrew

That would blow the fuse.

Is that with you Batt + jumper in place still?

Just unplug the jumper and check for continuity, and crossover continuity with a VOM.