Junk
Deceased
Joined: 06-30-2010
Posts: 25,739
From: Kannapolis NC
"So I'm wondering if I should caulk my door so it has somewhat of a seal"
In a word, no...never seal over rust urbexHHR, that just hides it and lets it do its nasty thing out of sight. You can re-skin doors without too much trouble, its done all the time to classic cars being restored, and you can also section the door frames and weld in new metal.
But, and its a big "but", will the rust be advanced enough in a few years to devote the time and expense to repair it permanently, or will you have moved on to something else by then.
In a word, no...never seal over rust urbexHHR, that just hides it and lets it do its nasty thing out of sight. You can re-skin doors without too much trouble, its done all the time to classic cars being restored, and you can also section the door frames and weld in new metal.
But, and its a big "but", will the rust be advanced enough in a few years to devote the time and expense to repair it permanently, or will you have moved on to something else by then.
Senior Member
Joined: 03-22-2010
Posts: 2,108
From: Russia Ekaterinburg
painful to look at this guy's problem ..
but this car does not look like a drowner. Drowner decay uniformly, but in this case I see only one door. In addition, the interior of a drowner fatally damaged by water and after a while (3 - 5 weeks) starts to stink horribly. This scent can not be forget, can not be remove.
It is easy to make sure that your car drowned. Enough to remove upholstery on the floor in area of seats or pedals. Underneath you will find dirt and mud (maybe - algae and dead tadpoles).
I think - it's simple. Previously, the car was in an accident, replacement door, poor quality paint.
In place of this guy, I would visit the nearest auto dismantling, buying second-hand door, the rusty door to return the dealer in exchange for money. Paint after a while when will be extra money or desire for technological creativity.
but this car does not look like a drowner. Drowner decay uniformly, but in this case I see only one door. In addition, the interior of a drowner fatally damaged by water and after a while (3 - 5 weeks) starts to stink horribly. This scent can not be forget, can not be remove.
It is easy to make sure that your car drowned. Enough to remove upholstery on the floor in area of seats or pedals. Underneath you will find dirt and mud (maybe - algae and dead tadpoles).
I think - it's simple. Previously, the car was in an accident, replacement door, poor quality paint.
In place of this guy, I would visit the nearest auto dismantling, buying second-hand door, the rusty door to return the dealer in exchange for money. Paint after a while when will be extra money or desire for technological creativity.
Senior Member
Joined: 09-10-2010
Posts: 904
From: Cleveland, Ohio
You have to introduce an acid to the rust to produce a black oxide. The black oxide is sufficient in stopping the rust. The acid is usually a phosphoric acid that is diluted down with deionized water. Once you spray it on, you let it react and somewhat crust over. At that point, you spray it down with water to get rid of the leftover reagents.
I would recommend actually grinding the rust off (lightly) FIRST and then treating the bare metal with the acid.
I had a 1988 Fleetwood Brougham in high school-car only had 13,000 miles on her. I loved that car. It sat for 9 years in an old man's driveway with about 40 bags of mulch all over it-I ended up buying it from his wife after he had passed. That car was naval blue metallic from the factory, but when I got it, the color scheme looked more like mahogany and bird ****. He was holding on to it for me to get the $200 together that he wanted for it (when you're 15, that's a lot). The car was initially owned by his late father-in-law who was an agent for the FBI. I found an SW .380 under the driver seat. That's a story for another time...
No air in the air ride, rear end was flat on the ground. The only rust she had was a perfect hole where a neighbor kid shot it in the passenger side door with a BB gun, dead middle. The hole was very small initially, but after a while, the rust traveled under the paint surface and created a blister the size of a dinner plate. I cut the section out with a grinding wheel, treated with the acid, brazed in a plate, ground the seams smooth and treated again with the body acid. Bondo fill, primer/paint clear, pinstripe, sweet.
Had the car from 2002 to 2010. No rust or blistering ever happened in that spot, or inside the door. I checked on more than one occasion. I got rear-ended by a teenage girl on her cell phone. That killed my baby. :'(
One of my senior pictures.
I miss that old girl quite a bit
I would recommend actually grinding the rust off (lightly) FIRST and then treating the bare metal with the acid.
I had a 1988 Fleetwood Brougham in high school-car only had 13,000 miles on her. I loved that car. It sat for 9 years in an old man's driveway with about 40 bags of mulch all over it-I ended up buying it from his wife after he had passed. That car was naval blue metallic from the factory, but when I got it, the color scheme looked more like mahogany and bird ****. He was holding on to it for me to get the $200 together that he wanted for it (when you're 15, that's a lot). The car was initially owned by his late father-in-law who was an agent for the FBI. I found an SW .380 under the driver seat. That's a story for another time...
No air in the air ride, rear end was flat on the ground. The only rust she had was a perfect hole where a neighbor kid shot it in the passenger side door with a BB gun, dead middle. The hole was very small initially, but after a while, the rust traveled under the paint surface and created a blister the size of a dinner plate. I cut the section out with a grinding wheel, treated with the acid, brazed in a plate, ground the seams smooth and treated again with the body acid. Bondo fill, primer/paint clear, pinstripe, sweet.
Had the car from 2002 to 2010. No rust or blistering ever happened in that spot, or inside the door. I checked on more than one occasion. I got rear-ended by a teenage girl on her cell phone. That killed my baby. :'(
One of my senior pictures.
I miss that old girl quite a bit
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 03-19-2011
Posts: 140
From: 1000 Islands N.Y.
Hi all
I might add that the original owner took the vehicle to a dealer and had both R+L front doors done because of paint peal and rust.
At that time the dealed did all 4 doors. Dont know why the rear doors were done [maybe more money?]
Is the rubber plug in picture factory?
I will take the vehicle to GM to ask about repair again before 36,000 miles.
thanks guys.
KK4
I might add that the original owner took the vehicle to a dealer and had both R+L front doors done because of paint peal and rust.
At that time the dealed did all 4 doors. Dont know why the rear doors were done [maybe more money?]
Is the rubber plug in picture factory?
I will take the vehicle to GM to ask about repair again before 36,000 miles.
thanks guys.
KK4
Platinum Member
Joined: 01-09-2007
Posts: 16,081
From: SE USA
You have to introduce an acid to the rust to produce a black oxide. The black oxide is sufficient in stopping the rust. The acid is usually a phosphoric acid that is diluted down with deionized water. Once you spray it on, you let it react and somewhat crust over. At that point, you spray it down with water to get rid of the leftover reagents.
I would recommend actually grinding the rust off (lightly) FIRST and then treating the bare metal with the acid.
I would recommend actually grinding the rust off (lightly) FIRST and then treating the bare metal with the acid.
High school memories,
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 03-19-2011
Posts: 140
From: 1000 Islands N.Y.
You have to introduce an acid to the rust to produce a black oxide. The black oxide is sufficient in stopping the rust. The acid is usually a phosphoric acid that is diluted down with deionized water. Once you spray it on, you let it react and somewhat crust over. At that point, you spray it down with water to get rid of the leftover reagents.
I would recommend actually grinding the rust off (lightly) FIRST and then treating the bare metal with the acid.
I had a 1988 Fleetwood Brougham in high school-car only had 13,000 miles on her. I loved that car. It sat for 9 years in an old man's driveway with about 40 bags of mulch all over it-I ended up buying it from his wife after he had passed. That car was naval blue metallic from the factory, but when I got it, the color scheme looked more like mahogany and bird ****. He was holding on to it for me to get the $200 together that he wanted for it (when you're 15, that's a lot). The car was initially owned by his late father-in-law who was an agent for the FBI. I found an SW .380 under the driver seat. That's a story for another time...
No air in the air ride, rear end was flat on the ground. The only rust she had was a perfect hole where a neighbor kid shot it in the passenger side door with a BB gun, dead middle. The hole was very small initially, but after a while, the rust traveled under the paint surface and created a blister the size of a dinner plate. I cut the section out with a grinding wheel, treated with the acid, brazed in a plate, ground the seams smooth and treated again with the body acid. Bondo fill, primer/paint clear, pinstripe, sweet.
Had the car from 2002 to 2010. No rust or blistering ever happened in that spot, or inside the door. I checked on more than one occasion. I got rear-ended by a teenage girl on her cell phone. That killed my baby. :'(
I miss that old girl quite a bit
I would recommend actually grinding the rust off (lightly) FIRST and then treating the bare metal with the acid.
I had a 1988 Fleetwood Brougham in high school-car only had 13,000 miles on her. I loved that car. It sat for 9 years in an old man's driveway with about 40 bags of mulch all over it-I ended up buying it from his wife after he had passed. That car was naval blue metallic from the factory, but when I got it, the color scheme looked more like mahogany and bird ****. He was holding on to it for me to get the $200 together that he wanted for it (when you're 15, that's a lot). The car was initially owned by his late father-in-law who was an agent for the FBI. I found an SW .380 under the driver seat. That's a story for another time...
No air in the air ride, rear end was flat on the ground. The only rust she had was a perfect hole where a neighbor kid shot it in the passenger side door with a BB gun, dead middle. The hole was very small initially, but after a while, the rust traveled under the paint surface and created a blister the size of a dinner plate. I cut the section out with a grinding wheel, treated with the acid, brazed in a plate, ground the seams smooth and treated again with the body acid. Bondo fill, primer/paint clear, pinstripe, sweet.
Had the car from 2002 to 2010. No rust or blistering ever happened in that spot, or inside the door. I checked on more than one occasion. I got rear-ended by a teenage girl on her cell phone. That killed my baby. :'(
I miss that old girl quite a bit
Such a pain in my neck.
Have a good 4th all
KK4