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Keyless entry not working

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Old 11-10-2011, 06:35 PM
  #21  
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The transmitter is the fob?!. The receiver is the RCDLR (the car). still say pay $5.48 instead of $78 for a first aprox.
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Old 11-10-2011, 07:04 PM
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i have fixed lots of these remotes with keylessfix.com it is a thin pice of plastic that makes the contacts work again
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Old 11-10-2011, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by donbrew
The transmitter is the fob?!. The receiver is the RCDLR (the car). still say pay $5.48 instead of $78 for a first aprox.
If it is in the key fob why is the new unused one not working? That is what makes me think it my be my car. I will order the things you are talking about and see if that works. Dont the new thing have to be programmed?
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Old 11-11-2011, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ChevyMgr
There isn't a battery in the mirror. Maybe they meant the RCDLR mounted in the headlining near the mirror. Still that's not a battery but rather the module that receives the RF signal from the transmitters and the tire pressure sensors.
Sorry ChevyMgr

The confusion stems from me, as I was ref the RCDLR as a battery.
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Old 11-11-2011, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by jdarter42
If it is in the key fob why is the new unused one not working? That is what makes me think it my be my car. I will order the things you are talking about and see if that works. Dont the new thing have to be programmed?
No, it is only the rubber part. You take the fob apart and keep everything except the rubber part, or you can get the insert type of thing that goes under the rubber, or you can get an entire new fob case including the rubber. That's 3 option under $10, My choice was a new fob case, they are all functionally equivalent. As long as you use the same circuit board no programming is required. The dealer, or locksmith will charge something more than $100 for a new complete fob and then something like $70 to program the car to the new fob.

What makes me believe it is the fob is that when you aimed at the tester "lock" did not light it up ,but "unlock" did, and I presume, the other buttons did. I am just saying try for a cheap fix first, then worst case scenario is you got a pretty new looking fob, and you can then pay the pro his due.
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:22 PM
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keyless fix will probably take care of the problem check out on google 10 dollars ,fixed mine
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Old 11-11-2011, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by donbrew
No, it is only the rubber part. You take the fob apart and keep everything except the rubber part, or you can get the insert type of thing that goes under the rubber, or you can get an entire new fob case including the rubber. That's 3 option under $10, My choice was a new fob case, they are all functionally equivalent. As long as you use the same circuit board no programming is required. The dealer, or locksmith will charge something more than $100 for a new complete fob and then something like $70 to program the car to the new fob.

What makes me believe it is the fob is that when you aimed at the tester "lock" did not light it up ,but "unlock" did, and I presume, the other buttons did. I am just saying try for a cheap fix first, then worst case scenario is you got a pretty new looking fob, and you can then pay the pro his due.
Both remotes did the same thing. One remote is new and had not been used since I had the car it has been hanging in the cabinet for 3 years I put new batteries in both remotes. I dont see the new fob being like the one I had carried every day. Looks like it would have worked. Both remotes did the same thing at the tester at advance auto. I am really puzzled.
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Old 11-11-2011, 03:01 PM
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Some people think electronics is Magick, and sometimes it is.
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:00 PM
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My fathers used remote had problems the first time we used it I had to install the keyless fix thing to get it working. I think the contacts inside corrorde over time used or not
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Old 11-16-2011, 03:42 AM
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Chevy Hhr 2008.Where is the module RCDLR installed/placed?
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