New motor questions
Thread Starter
Joined: 10-25-2023
Posts: 5
From: Ohio
New motor questions
Hey all, long time lurker, first time poster. You all were extremely useful when I did the clutch in my HHR, and I couldn't seem to find a good answer to my question in an existing thread, so I figured I'd ask myself. I not-so-recently blew up the L61 in my HHR auto-crossing it, and just recently got a replacement motor. It's another L61, remanned, and ready to be put in. I was wondering what the best motor break-in procedure would be, such as oil recommendations, as well as how often I should change the oil during the break-in miles. Despite me having auto-crossed my HHR, it is my daily, and I want to take the best care of it as I can. Thanks in advance.
Moderator
Joined: 05-01-2014
Posts: 8,511
From: California
Here's the beak-in procedure from ZZP for their new engines. Disregard the amount of oil required. Important break in procedure:
We recommend running Comp Cams "break in" oil for the first 200 miles, you will need 7 quarts. Before you start the car with the new engine, we recommend that you fill with oil, then leave the injector harness unplugged and turn engine over until the oil pressure light goes out, or even better, use an oil pressure gauge. This ensures that you are starting the engine with full oil pressure.
When the engine is running in gear and at light throttle, bring it up to 4500rpm, then coast down to near idle(still in gear), then 5000, then 5500, then 6000, and 6500 each time letting it coast down to idle. This will help seat the rings. Then after a couple heat cycles, start running it under power.
We recommend running Comp Cams "break in" oil for the first 200 miles, you will need 7 quarts. Before you start the car with the new engine, we recommend that you fill with oil, then leave the injector harness unplugged and turn engine over until the oil pressure light goes out, or even better, use an oil pressure gauge. This ensures that you are starting the engine with full oil pressure.
When the engine is running in gear and at light throttle, bring it up to 4500rpm, then coast down to near idle(still in gear), then 5000, then 5500, then 6000, and 6500 each time letting it coast down to idle. This will help seat the rings. Then after a couple heat cycles, start running it under power.
Thread Starter
Joined: 10-25-2023
Posts: 5
From: Ohio
Here's the beak-in procedure from ZZP for their new engines. Disregard the amount of oil required. Important break in procedure:
We recommend running Comp Cams "break in" oil for the first 200 miles, you will need 7 quarts. Before you start the car with the new engine, we recommend that you fill with oil, then leave the injector harness unplugged and turn engine over until the oil pressure light goes out, or even better, use an oil pressure gauge. This ensures that you are starting the engine with full oil pressure.
When the engine is running in gear and at light throttle, bring it up to 4500rpm, then coast down to near idle(still in gear), then 5000, then 5500, then 6000, and 6500 each time letting it coast down to idle. This will help seat the rings. Then after a couple heat cycles, start running it under power.
We recommend running Comp Cams "break in" oil for the first 200 miles, you will need 7 quarts. Before you start the car with the new engine, we recommend that you fill with oil, then leave the injector harness unplugged and turn engine over until the oil pressure light goes out, or even better, use an oil pressure gauge. This ensures that you are starting the engine with full oil pressure.
When the engine is running in gear and at light throttle, bring it up to 4500rpm, then coast down to near idle(still in gear), then 5000, then 5500, then 6000, and 6500 each time letting it coast down to idle. This will help seat the rings. Then after a couple heat cycles, start running it under power.
Thread Starter
Joined: 10-25-2023
Posts: 5
From: Ohio
I was not aware of this fact, however, I do believe I got a replacement Gen II L61. I'll have to check as soon as I'm able to get a break from college classes and work, and I am able to go back home, where my car is located. If we got a Gen I, it will need to be corrected. Thank you for bringing this to my attention.
Senior Member
Joined: 12-05-2014
Posts: 3,368
From: Northern Ohio
I was not aware of this fact, however, I do believe I got a replacement Gen II L61. I'll have to check as soon as I'm able to get a break from college classes and work, and I am able to go back home, where my car is located. If we got a Gen I, it will need to be corrected. Thank you for bringing this to my attention.
Someone here knows how to distinguish the short blocks at a glance. No me.
Thread Starter
Joined: 10-25-2023
Posts: 5
From: Ohio
Truth be told, I'm not entirely sure it as simple as model year. If they did a running change and there're some crossover in some models, that might explain the anbiguous RPO. But no matter, glad to know you'll double check.
Someone here knows how to distinguish the short blocks at a glance. No me.
Someone here knows how to distinguish the short blocks at a glance. No me.
Senior Member
Joined: 12-05-2014
Posts: 3,368
From: Northern Ohio
I called my father earlier (he currently has my car, as well as the new motor because it would be safer at home than with me at college, and he said that the place that we got the motor from required the vin from my car to ensure that they got the correct motor entirely.