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No electrical power

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Old Mar 13, 2022 | 01:19 AM
  #1  
Rap808's Avatar
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Joined: 03-13-2022
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From: Tacoma washington
No electrical power

I replaced the clutch in my 2009 hhr. Started to bleed the hydraulic clutch. Put the key in ignition and turned it to hear only a click then the instrument cluster made a slight buzzing sound, the needles on tge gauges barely moved then everything went dead. No lights, no horn, no power windows, no chimes, no interior or exterior lights, no stereo/cd player. Nothing. I the battery voltage is good and the battery tests fine. Had the battery tested under load at local parts store it tests good. What the heck caused me to gave zero electrical power when turning the key?



Last edited by Oldblue; Mar 13, 2022 at 07:02 AM.
Old Mar 13, 2022 | 06:21 AM
  #2  
firemangeorge's Avatar
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Wrong forum. Not a HHR Of The Month.

Wrong forum again. Not a "How To" tutorial.

Last edited by Oldblue; Mar 13, 2022 at 07:03 AM. Reason: Moved to here! Merged duplicate threads
Old Mar 13, 2022 | 07:04 AM
  #3  
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How’s this?
Old Mar 13, 2022 | 07:32 AM
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Thanks Oldblue

As far as the OP problem. If the battery checks out OK and the charge voltage is at least 12.5 volts or more, then it most likely is an error during the repair work.
Recheck all your work on the electrical connections again. Grounds included. Especially around the underhood fuse box. Something is loose or incorrectly connected.
(There have been cases where people doing work like this mixed up the battery positive and power steering power connection at the fuse box. Might want to double check there)

If you do have any mixed up connections, you could blow some fuses. Check those if you do find any mixed up wires. Especially that big inline fuse by the battery if you still have no power up front.
Old Mar 13, 2022 | 08:50 AM
  #5  
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Good advice, FMG
Old Mar 13, 2022 | 09:23 AM
  #6  
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Joined: 03-13-2022
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From: Tacoma washington
No electrical power

I have a 2009 HHR 1 2 engine with manual transmission. I dropped the tranny and replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate and slave cylinder according to the Haynes manual instructions then reinstalled the tranny., plugged in all connections and reconnected the battery in the trunk
When I put ut the key in ignition and turned it to unlock the rear hatch everything was normal, interior lights were on, power windows rolled up and down, horn worked, radio/cd worked , fan worked, headlight high and low beams worked. I doubled checked under the hood for tools, checked fluids and all connectors then got back in car and turned the key and only heard a click in the engine compartment. Turned key off and removed the key. Reinserted key in ignition and turned it all dash lights came on normally tgen whenbi turned the key to start the motor I heard only a click in the engine compartment, then the instrument cluster made a slight humming/buzzing sound, the needles on the gauges barely moved then everything went dead. No lights, no horn, no power windows, no chimes, no interior or exterior lights, no stereo/cd player. Nothing. I removed the key then put it back in the ignition switch and turned it to get nothing. Everything was dead. The battery voltage is good. I had the battery tested under load at local parts store it tests good. What the heck caused me to gave zero power?
Old Mar 13, 2022 | 09:26 AM
  #7  
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Joined: 03-13-2022
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From: Tacoma washington
No electrical power

The motor is a 2.2. Sorry for the typo
Old Mar 13, 2022 | 09:35 AM
  #8  
firemangeorge's Avatar
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From: Alabama
This is the 3rd separate thread you've started about the same car/problem. Please don't double and triple post the same question.

The Admin combined the other 2 threads and placed them here: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...l-power-65151/
Old Mar 13, 2022 | 09:41 AM
  #9  
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Merged again. There's more information given, so I'll not delete it. Please keep this issue here in this one thread.

Last edited by RJ_RS_SS_350; Mar 13, 2022 at 10:47 AM.
Old Mar 13, 2022 | 11:48 AM
  #10  
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geg
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Either way, there's a power outage somewhere.
Go through the whole line starting from the battery, work for the prof.electrician.
I'm not an expert, but it may make sense to test the fuse, which is located directly on the battery wire. Of course, and terminals too. Everything.



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