desertrat

My '07 HHR made a terrible squeak from the front end when hitting bumps at low speeds. The front end also made a slight clunk when coming to a stop at low speeds.
Finally fed, up, I jacked the car up and removed the lower control arms, and the problem was very obvious. The rear bushing were shot, and I mean nearly disintegrated. This cannot be seen without removing the arm itself, which is very easy, 4 bolts and it is out.
What surprised me is that the ball joint and front bushing were like new, almost no wear after 145,000 miles. I replaced the entire arm assembly, but if I had to do it all over again I would have only replaced the rear bushings, which are round and cost about $10 at Rock Auto. They can be pressed out and back in, regardless of what you read elsewhere. If you buy the bushing only, make sure you buy the ones with a 51mm steel insert, as there are other lengths. Be sure to follow the torque settings and sequence, too, It is like tightening a cylinder head.
With the new parts in the front end it totally quiet, like new. I had to have the car aligned, which was expected. This kind of repair can be done in a garage in an afternoon if you have the bushings on hand and have a way to replace them in the arm. On a difficulty scale, I would rate it the same as doing a front brake job, maybe even easier.

donbrew

Why are the ball joints replacement on a new LCA?

There must be 100 threads on this subject and a how-to in the how to section.

desertrat

New ball joints come with the arm because replacing them is just about impossible without the right drill press or riveter. If a ball joint separates from the arm you will lose control of the car, a bad bushing won't do that.
I figured I would post new so there's no beating around the bush. Here's the problem, here's the answer, in normal guy terms. Some of the questions and statements can simply be annoying if the thread gets too long. The photos say a lot, too.

fastsuv

I think what Don is saying is why there is a bolt-on ball joint on the new control arm instead of a riveted-on ball joint. Usually bolt-on ball joints are meant as replacements on existing old control arms.

Steve

desertrat

That's what he said? I read it several times and couldn't figure it out.

The replacement arm is rebuilt, it is not new. Rebuilds can have bolt-on ball joints.

donbrew

The first sticky in the how-to forum (there are pics and vids and correct torque procedures): https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...ol-arms-44378/

Oldblue

I drilled the old arms rivets and knocked out the bushing with an air chisel, an old front brake rotor works well for driving out those bushings