No Voltage at Starter
#21
It is an automatic transmission in park. I tested the first fuse on left (#5?) for continuity (with the same multi-meter) I will pull and check relay #34 when I get down there. There is a section of that one red wire to starter that is yellow with a factory splice down near the starter lug, as I recall, hence my question about a fusible link. It felt intact and normal. I could pierce the insulation proximal to that splice with a needle and test for voltage above yellowish portion.
#25
Seriously, I'll keep everyone posted. Once I get down there with the new starter, I ought to be able to prove if there is a fusible link by probing insulation above the factory splice. That will be useful information for everyone on the forum.
#26
#28
I will check fuse. I do have power elsewhere in vehicle.
A hypothetical for those of you with schematics:
If something in the brush end of the starter caused a dead short, ie: a piece of brush broke against the brush holder or something and fried everything the last time I tried the starter when I got no rotation, only smoke:
It could have burned relay #34 causing no voltage on purple wire?
It could have fried fusible link in wire to alternator?
What would have fried in wire from battery, since it isn't a direct connection to battery? What does that wire pass through on its way to positive terminal?
Thanks
A hypothetical for those of you with schematics:
If something in the brush end of the starter caused a dead short, ie: a piece of brush broke against the brush holder or something and fried everything the last time I tried the starter when I got no rotation, only smoke:
It could have burned relay #34 causing no voltage on purple wire?
It could have fried fusible link in wire to alternator?
What would have fried in wire from battery, since it isn't a direct connection to battery? What does that wire pass through on its way to positive terminal?
Thanks
#29
Do you have power under the red cap next to the underhood fuse block(the positive jumpstart terminal)?
There appear to be quite a few parts involved with getting power to the purple wire.
1. Crank relay #34
2. Run/Crank relay #51
3. Crank fuse #5
4. Park/Neutral fuse #46
5. Park/Neutral position switch on the shifter
6. ECM
7. BCM
8. Ignition Switch
So you have no power at red as well as purple? And you tested in Park, you should also test in Neutral.
There appear to be quite a few parts involved with getting power to the purple wire.
1. Crank relay #34
2. Run/Crank relay #51
3. Crank fuse #5
4. Park/Neutral fuse #46
5. Park/Neutral position switch on the shifter
6. ECM
7. BCM
8. Ignition Switch
So you have no power at red as well as purple? And you tested in Park, you should also test in Neutral.
#30
The reason for relays is to isolate switching.
The purple wire only activates the solenoid (a relay) and it is energized by another relay.
I guess it is possible for all of the failsafes to fail "Yahoo!!!!" to quote from Dr. Strangelove.
GM schematics don't acknowledge any fusible links. Either they don't exist or they are applied without direction from the design team.
The big red wire starts at the battery, goes to the underhood fuse box, then the starter (really the solenoid), then the alternator. Those are all of the connections. It is a direct connection with terminals in between.
The purple wire only activates the solenoid (a relay) and it is energized by another relay.
I guess it is possible for all of the failsafes to fail "Yahoo!!!!" to quote from Dr. Strangelove.
GM schematics don't acknowledge any fusible links. Either they don't exist or they are applied without direction from the design team.
The big red wire starts at the battery, goes to the underhood fuse box, then the starter (really the solenoid), then the alternator. Those are all of the connections. It is a direct connection with terminals in between.