No, #5 is in the very back row, fifth socket from the left. But looking at the diagram, if that fuse blew, the starter would not crank. However, at the starter, that is the purple wire. The red wire, as I said, should be hot at all times.

 

Man, if I had to guess, I would say your starter went bad(slow, noisy crank). Then you jumpstarted(incorrectly), which fried something.

 

If there was a blown fusible link between the starter and the fuse box the alternator wouldn't not charge the battery.

 

Could have burnt a ground wire at the transmission lug.

 

That second part would be a loser's bet! I wouldn't risk a lot of money on that if I were you!

Seriously, I'll keep everyone posted. Once I get down there with the new starter, I ought to be able to prove if there is a fusible link by probing insulation above the factory splice. That will be useful information for everyone on the forum.

 

The dot on the schematic is marked as a splice J11.

 

Check the fuse by the battery back in the spare tire well, your gonna have to disconnect the negative terminal whilst you replace the starter

 

I will check fuse. I do have power elsewhere in vehicle.

A hypothetical for those of you with schematics:

If something in the brush end of the starter caused a dead short, ie: a piece of brush broke against the brush holder or something and fried everything the last time I tried the starter when I got no rotation, only smoke:

It could have burned relay #34 causing no voltage on purple wire?
It could have fried fusible link in wire to alternator?
What would have fried in wire from battery, since it isn't a direct connection to battery? What does that wire pass through on its way to positive terminal?

Thanks

 

Do you have power under the red cap next to the underhood fuse block(the positive jumpstart terminal)?

There appear to be quite a few parts involved with getting power to the purple wire.
1. Crank relay #34
2. Run/Crank relay #51
3. Crank fuse #5
4. Park/Neutral fuse #46
5. Park/Neutral position switch on the shifter
6. ECM
7. BCM
8. Ignition Switch

So you have no power at red as well as purple? And you tested in Park, you should also test in Neutral.

 

The reason for relays is to isolate switching.

The purple wire only activates the solenoid (a relay) and it is energized by another relay.

I guess it is possible for all of the failsafes to fail "Yahoo!!!!" to quote from Dr. Strangelove.

GM schematics don't acknowledge any fusible links. Either they don't exist or they are applied without direction from the design team.

The big red wire starts at the battery, goes to the underhood fuse box, then the starter (really the solenoid), then the alternator. Those are all of the connections. It is a direct connection with terminals in between.