ChevroletCustomerService

camaro98z28,

Thank you for the additional information about your situation. I apologize that you have had to experience this type of thing with your vehicle and the dealership.

I can understand your point of view. General Motors takes comments like this very seriously, and I have documented your concern along with your comments.

General Motors relies heavily on loyal customers and I hope one day we may be given the opportunity to earn your business again.

Michelle, Chevrolet Customer Service

Chevy13

I have started a similar problem the day before yesterday. While letting the car warm up, the AC would blow out warm. After driving a few miles it would start getting cold and the get warm again then cold again and then I noticed the temp had climbed over hlaf, higher than it had ever been. I shut the car off and started it back up. Everything went back to normal. AC blew cold and the car ran at it's normal temp. Today I drove it and everything was fine. On the way home when I slowed down it started doing it again. The temp climbed high and the AC got warm. Pretty frustrating

working on it

Following this thread, I wonder if anyone has wired a manual override for their fan switch. I've had three cars with electric fans, and have had all fail to switch the fans on at one time or another. Temp sensors go through exreme heat cycles, and I don't trust them. I went fully manual on the Chevelle, no problem there (race car only at the time), and put manual switches inline with the automatic switches on the '92 Achiev SC, and on an old '85 Lebaron Turbo. And when I inevitably add a supplementary electric fan to some older, cooling challenged pickups I've had (3), manually switched only. The only reason I haven't done so on my Cobalt or HHR is "Will it send mixed messages to the ECM ?", and possibly void warrantees? If someone can definitely say that adding a manual switch is OK, then I'll be putting them on tomorrow. Otherwise, after this extreme summer heat we've had here in Texas this year, I'm installing extra stand-alone fans on both Ecotec's. I don't like to see 217 degrees on my DIC when the A/C is off in stop-and-go traffic.

Chevy13

Mine is still acting up. Everything works great while driving. The A/C is ice cold, the coolant temp is around 198. But then when I stop at a red light, I hear the thermostat click, and the A/C goes warm and gets a musty smell to it and the temp goes up dramatically.

donbrew

A) check your coolant level
B) check your t-stat if the level is good

whopper

RE: item b - thermostat. Several of us have seen where the thermostat's rubber valve gasket jams the thermostat in an open condition causing the engine to be slow to warm up, and generating various symptoms -CEL 0128, temp gauge stops displaying temp, and the a/c is sometimes disabled and just will blow warm air.

I wonder if there is a thermostat problem here with it jamming it shut, or barely open, and the high temp being read shuts down the a/c. But that shouldn't prevent the cooling fans from coming on.

Didn't someone post something here once about there being two different temperature sensors on the 2.4L? Perhaps one controls the temp gauge, and the other controls the fans?

If that is the case I'd suspect the sensor giving a false temperature reading. (I had a similar thing with my Mitsu-powered Dodge - false overheating gauge readings, caused by a bad sensor, and my fans didn't kick in).

comments?

Chevy13

The A/C goes warm before it starts overheating. And it only does it while I'm stopped. The coolant level was low in the resevoir, but even after filling it, it still does it.

ChevroletCustomerService

@Chevy13, I see that other members of the forum have provided you with avenues to pursue in trying to find out what is going on with your vehicle. Have you tried the thermostat yet? If you have, what was your findings?

Michelle, Chevrolet Customer Service

donbrew

After you fill the reservoir, it may take a few cycles to suck the fluid into the system. If by low you mean less than an inch in the reservoir, then it was empty! You may be wanting to remove the pressure cap (after the motor is COLD) and check the level there, you should see lots of fluid in the pipe.

You must check the fluid level more often than you used to, the stuff evaporates!

oneton

The 1st post says Overheated Cooling Fan... not coming on !!!

Why not look at the fan motor ! It's a easy low tech test, Set DIC to coolant temp, Start eng., watch temp when fan starts look at temp. will be at or around 220/230 if not something is wrong. Also start eng. fan should come on with A/C on if not something is wrong. Just because fan starts and runs is it also up to speed ! just spining at a lower speed won't cool . Ck for leaves or trash between A/C condenser & Rad. A good shop should have a scanner that can turn the cooling fan on & off at will so as to test the system. A good system should be able to run at idle all day with just the fan on and off at the right time to keep temp at the right spot. 195/210 normal temps.