Will do. I'll let everyone know how it goes.

well if you don't drive it hard, for now why don't you try like one of the post said ad some really good quality stop leak and see if that wont by you some time, you never know it may work for a long time? what do have to loose?
Tim

Did you read the part about filling and puddling at the same time?:toast:

so I guess that won't work?
don't feel bad I just spent thousands of dollars on a new motor and turbo.

OK. Not sure if it's feasible on the HHR, but what about bypassing the heater core ?

Back in my mechanic days, I have done this for customers. It was either they needed the car then and would return later for the repair. Or, they didn't have the funds at that time.
Either way, I was able to keep them on the road until they were able to get the work done at a later time.

I don't know why that wouldn't work. Just jump the 2 hoses together.

Yes ..... you can bypass the heater core.
You just will NOT be able to use the heater.

The connections on the motor might too close, for you to use the hose that is already on the motor.(you DONT want to put a kink in the hose).

You might have to take the hose off and match it up with a U shaped hose that will fit. It would take you about an hour to bypass the heater core(it is tight by the firewall) and this will make SURE the heater core is your problem.

Remember to refill the radiator with Dexcool when you are done.

I was about to ask about bypassing. I will definitely try it. I don't feel good about using stop leak products, just seems like it could do more damage in the long run. Monday is the soonest that I'll be able to work on the car. I have been driving it carefully, no more than 10 miles at once (thankfully, that is the distance from home to work). Driving it much more than that would definitely overheat it.

I thought about that after I posted the stop leak fix.
That will work, it doesn't get to cold for long in Texas right? cold days just were a jacket.
that should save you about a thousand bucks :)
Kudos George!
Tim

I've seen race cars take a rock in the radiator and the Mendtite stopped it. I have a Blazer that had the heater core leaking. It's also a big job requiring removing the entire dasboard. I used the Mendtite and its been fine for 5 years. We use it in Mack and Cummins engines. It seals leaks with the systems pressurized. It's well worth a try before spending $1,000.

Good news, everyone!

I successfully bypassed the heater core. I spent about $25 on heater hose, clamps, and antifreeze. I called a shop about bypassing the core before trying it on my own, and they gave me the run around, so I decided that I would bypass the core myself. No more leaks, coolant now stays at a consistent temperature between 187-199, give or take a couple of degrees.

I also bought a repair guide for my HHR. I will study up on it and change the heater core when I feel like I am more mentally prepared. I won't be needing heat for a while (thanks, Texas!)

Good on the bypass. I did a bypass when my heater core in my other car went - and then finally got to taking it apart and replaced the core. It was a MAJOR job, aided by my Chiltons?/Hanes? shop manual. I spread it over several days then got a major delay in getting back to it - which was a mistake, as I had forgotten how some of the stuff came apart. But it went back together in the end - and all was good.

In hindsight I should have used more labelled zip locked bags for the various fasteners that were removed, I should have used the cell phone for taking a few pictures during the disassembly.

Best of luck when you tackle the job - keep us posted on how it goes. :)

ps: be very careful when working near the airbags and follow all precautionary steps with them - and make sure you disconnect the Neg side of the battery before ripping the dash apart (including the air bags).

The airbags are totally disabled after the battery has been disconnected for 15 minutes. The retained power is drained by then, 15 minutes has plenty of buffer.

Reread the AZ directions I posted earlier, good luck, Grasshopper!

Those are great instructions Oldblue - I wish I had a similar set when I did the heater core replacement in my other car (a Dodge Avenger). But the autozone info is pretty sketchy - Product & HowTo Info | | | REPLACE | AutoZone.com

Update:

It's finally getting a little chilly outside, so I'm going to take another stab at replacing my heater core. I don't expect to finish this job in one day, but I do have a friend who is willing to give me a hand one day this week, so realistically I may be able to finish it in a day or two. I have my repair guide handy, as well as all of the tips and advice everyone here has offered, which I very much appreciate. The only thing working against me is that I don't know what certain parts of the dash are called. I can try to provide a better example when I am near my repair guide. I want to try to document everything I take apart (take photos). Weather permitting, I'm going to start tomorrow.

Best of luck on one nasty project. Just take your time, and don't force anything. This diagram might help a little with the dash parts. Taking pictures really helps, as well as having numerous containers you can label describing where the parts came from.

Thanks for the diagram! That will definitely come in handy.

Get some small bandages and sauve for the nicks and cuts from all that plastic and steel!

Making some progress, but I'm currently stuck at removing the instrument panel. Per my guide:

"Release the passenger's side airbag from the instrument panel cover by pushing in on the tabs to separate the airbag module from the trim panel."

There is no illustration to go with this and I don't see what this is referring to. And yes, the negative side of my battery is disconnected.

Edit: found the tabs...under the airbag panel. MAJOR pain to take out. The instrument panel dash is off now. I have run out of daylight, so I will continue tomorrow morning

Okay, I am now stuck getting the cowl support bar out. I'm pretty sure I've identified what it is, but I can't get it out. Any tips?

Take a picture with your cell phone & post it.

I think you are doing a GREAT JOB & you are almost done.

I'll have to upload pictures later, but I can say that I overlooked the steering column. I think that is what is keeping the cowl support in place. In a desperate attempt to work around it, I tried to skip ahead to opening the cover for the heater core, but there is ONE bolt that is blocked by part of the cowl support, and it is impossible to loosen the bolt with this piece of metal in the way.

I was really worried earlier, seeing my dash in pieces, but I think if I keep focusing on one part at a time then I'll get the job done before I know it. Putting all of this stuff back is going to be fun, haha.

So far so good - keep plugging away at it. :thumb:

Take your time and just keep track as best you can where the parts came from. Once you get that core out, putting it back together will be fairly quick compared to the disassembly. Just remember to double check everything as you go making sure all electrical and mechanical cables/connections are done right before you cover them up.

Nothing worse than having to tear it all apart to attach a simple electrical plug that was missed.

and don't over torque the 7 mm screws that hold plastic to metal, a squeak will result.

Okay, I'm trying to remove the steering wheel with no luck. I bought a puller kit, but it doesn't seem like it fits the inside of he wheel. Is there a specific kit that I need to get?http://s23.postimg.org/97du5pqhn/image.jpg

I put the nut on to protect the threads put my both knees under the bottom of the wheel pulled the top of the wheel with my left hand and a quick smack with my 3 lb hammer to the shaft and it popped loose! Just don't swing for the fence!!

My wheel won't budge. Am I missing something?

No, it's the good old tapered spline shaft wedged into the steering wheel.
Did you try my method from my earlier post?
Maybe try two sharp raps with your hammer.
Make sure you apply upward pressure with your knees to the bottom of the steering wheel and pull hard on the top of the wheel with your left hand, then the two sharp blows
Remember to hit the shaft as square as you can so you don't mess up the threads and have the nut on so the wheel doesn't pop off and whack you in the face.