Did you open up the rear hatch remove the interior panel and check the latch mechanism itself?

 

Yes I have oldblue latch is good. Going to test splice connected as recommended by Donbrew

 

When the switch is activated the wht/blk wire should supply ground at all points and the lt blu should be 12V.

Of course make sure "unlock all" has been active.

 

0.K. So my 2009 SS has the same problem. loaded groceries in the back, came home, hatch wont open to unload the groceries...fuse ok... no fuse in slot 11, ok... swap out relay with one from beside it, still not working, so relay not the issue either... read up on the manual release and yeah it was tricky to find at first. Took some pics and tried to post once, but it didn't upload and my cat ran over the keyboard and lost my whole post, starting over now...lol IF the pics will up load you'll have a better idea of how to get to that release lever. slight angle down and to the left with a flat blade screw driver at least 4 inches long from tip to base of handle. Make sure you open the hatch all the way when it unlatches or cover the latch to keep it from re-locking.. Also after opening, if you are going to be testing it out make sure you fully close the latch while the hatch is open. ((( Picture 5 shows the release lever with tip of my finger pointing at it, Picture 6 shows it with the screw driver pushing it rearward. cant see it from inside the care when trying to open it )))

So with those items verified above as ok, I started tearing it down... Being in Michigan winter I managed to break 5 push pins getting the inside panel off. dropped the rear wiper motor to access wiring and mounting hardware, then began unbolting the finger latch housing popping out the license plate lights and unplugging the handle/switch.as soon as I had it off the car and pulled the switch, there it was... the dreaded green corrosion climbing UP from the mounting surface towards the connector. pretty sure its a switch issue so i used a jump wire on the connector and BAM, latch opened... figuring i had to replace it anyway, I decided to bust it open and take a look at the insides... yup you guessed it... covered in green and white powder and corrosion. electrical cleaner and light sanding, put it back together and still didn't work. I didn't open it all the way, but guessing the wiring from the plug was likely corroded off from the contact pads.

So ordering new push pins and handle switch and hope it's not forever getting here.... Hope this helps yall ...

 

That release button looks nasty, glad you got the photos loaded.

 

I have the same problem but I have not checked the fuse. Could someone tell me which fuse do I check for the rear hatch?

 

If ther label is missing from the fuse box lid that information is in your Owner Manual. Link to FREE digital Owner Manual in my sig.
Since some people think "Read The Forgotten Manual" is rude, it is fuse #10 under hood fuse box. There should be NO fuse in #11, or the lock will not function correctly.

 

Thanks for clearly directing future readers to a great source of information

 

Old thread revived. My switch pad didnt work one afternoon. Next day its working again. Quick question, Does the inner panel have to be removed or just the 2 screws on the pad? Already have the new switch pad. Just wondering if they left enough room to pop the plug on the outside of the gate. thanks.

 

Arrrrrggggg. The torx head screws are stripped from rust. Another 5 minute job into an hour and a half job or more.